Thread: Engine rebuild, torqued down crankshaft won’t move

Check this out and read bottom of the page it may help.
Land Rover Series II IIA III 2.25L 3mb Petrol Engine Motor Overhaul Rebuild Kit | eBay

Gippy

You cannot "grind" the tangs off the bearings. You must get the right bearings and locating tangs. Otherwise you are risking engine failure.

Originally Posted by theelms66

You cannot "grind" the tangs off the bearings. You must get the right bearings and locating tangs. Otherwise you are risking engine failure.

Cheers. It didn’t sound right when they suggested it either.

Yes you can't just grind the locating tab off they are there to stop the bearing from spinning in the caps.
Are you fitting the same size bearings as came out if so the old bearings should be marked on the back if STD or what ever size they are over size, same as the new bearings should be marked.

As mentioned above I rebuilt my 2.25 back in 1988. I had never built an engine before and just followed the instructions in the Haynes Manual I had at the time and it worked out quite well.

I last saw the Series 3 running around in 2014 - still on the engine so if everything is right these engines are not hard to do - my guess is from what you have described it is an issue with the bearings you got from Turners.

Was not an issue for me as you could get the bearings from anywhere back in 1988. I just took the crank to the local engine shop and told them to machine if needed and provide bearings to match which they did that day.

Good luck with it. Electronic ignition, extractors and a carb rebuild does wonders for these engines also - a mild shave on the head but not too much also helps a little too. My engine had been cooked and the head was a little warped so i had to have the shave - the resultant rebuilt engine went like a rocket and was incredibly reliable - had to be as it was my everyday driver at the time.

Garry

Just in case you have the urge, don't use loctite on the back of the bearings thinking it will prevent them spinning.
It has thickness and will squeeze the shells solid against the crank.
Not me and not a Landie but Yes, I've seen it done....

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Just in case you have the urge, don't use loctite on the back of the bearings thinking it will prevent them spinning.
It has thickness and will squeeze the shells solid against the crank.
Not me and not a Landie but Yes, I've seen it done....

Steve

Laughs hilariously ( slowly putting the red bottle away ). Thanks for the heads up I hadn’t gone down that particular avenue... but more from being lost than avoiding.

Thanks for the reply!!

Originally Posted by 101RRS

As mentioned above I rebuilt my 2.25 back in 1988. I had never built an engine before and just followed the instructions in the Haynes Manual I had at the time and it worked out quite well.

I last saw the Series 3 running around in 2014 - still on the engine so if everything is right these engines are not hard to do - my guess is from what you have described it is an issue with the bearings you got from Turners.

Was not an issue for me as you could get the bearings from anywhere back in 1988. I just took the crank to the local engine shop and told them to machine if needed and provide bearings to match which they did that day.

Good luck with it. Electronic ignition, extractors and a carb rebuild does wonders for these engines also - a mild shave on the head but not too much also helps a little too. My engine had been cooked and the head was a little warped so i had to have the shave - the resultant rebuilt engine went like a rocket and was incredibly reliable - had to be as it was my everyday driver at the time.

Garry

Cheers for that. You hit on a really good idea. I think I’ll contact the engine shop and see if they can help. You are right the issue I think is two fold. The bearings are probably the incorrect width ( my fault ) and the tab is in wrong side.