Thread: Engine rebuild, torqued down crankshaft won’t move

I nice video describing the bottom end assembly process.

I checked the journal size ( fm rear forward 2.493//2.480//2.502 ).

Does this mean I need to get the crank ground down to the same size ? ,

I measured the old bearing versus the new and I think the bearings are issue. The float was good (0.002) but I had both thrust washers in there.

So my next question is where do I get bearing that have the tab on the correct side ?

I think you would be best to take the crankshaft to a machine shop for inspection and check of actual journal size including the conrod bearings. From what I read you have a 0.022” discrepancy and if that is the case something funny has been performed on the components in the past. In a normal situation I would not expect to see more than 0.0005” - 0.001” difference in any journals in a normal engine.

Gippy

Originally Posted by Gippslander

I think you would be best to take the crankshaft to a machine shop for inspection and check of actual journal size including the conrod bearings. From what I read you have a 0.022” discrepancy and if that is the case something funny has been performed on the components in the past. In a normal situation I would not expect to see more than 0.0005” - 0.001” difference in any journals in a normal engine.

Gippy

Thanks mate. I think I’ll bring doing that.

Here is a link that has workshop manual for engines it may not be your exact one but it is for Land Rover 2.25 petrol

Land_Rover_Series_III_Part_2.pdf - Google Drive

worth a few minutes read.
Gippy

Not quite following the issues with the tabs on the bearings on the wrong side - sorry to ask but is it an installer problem? Have to ask as I have not seen that aspect before - if the oil hole in the block etc line up with the holes etc in the bearings all should be good.

I have had trouble putting in bearings but these have always been operator error but then my bearing were the correct ones.

As suggested, you do need to get the crank journals checked and get bearings to match or if the journals are not right then these need to be ground and polished to match the next size bearings.

I hope it all works out.

Garry

Originally Posted by 101RRS

Not quite following the issues with the tabs on the bearings on the wrong side - sorry to ask but is it an installer problem? Have to ask as I have not seen that aspect before - if the oil hole in the block etc line up with the holes etc in the bearings all should be good.

I have had trouble putting in bearings but these have always been operator error but then my bearing were the correct ones.

As suggested, you do need to get the crank journals checked and get bearings to match or if the journals are not right then these need to be ground and polished to match the next size bearings.

I hope it all works out.

Garry

Fair question Garry. I posted a photo on here with the tabs. I’ve tried them a few ways, my guess is I’ve ordered the wrong ones. I’m going over the numbers now and I’ll attempt to order the right ones. Thank you for all your help mate. I appreciate it. I’m in no rush and as some said to me,’ it’s no race, just have fun with it’. I’ve learnt a heap so far, I’ll learn more I’m sure. It’s all part of the fun.

Originally Posted by Gippslander

Here is a link that has workshop manual for engines it may not be your exact one but it is for Land Rover 2.25 petrol

Land_Rover_Series_III_Part_2.pdf - Google Drive

worth a few minutes read.
Gippy

Thank you mate. I’ll give a burl. I watched the video today and it was eye opening as to how much test and adjust went into it. I’ll definitely be taking my time when I reattack.