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Thread: Hello

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mox View Post

    Without looking at this governor now to refresh memory, I remember for a start make on identification plate is Isospeedic. Anyway, wondering if anyone is familiar enough with these governors fitted to Land Rovers to know if they are right and left handed versions of basically the same thing.
    Yes it appears that there was a version for the Series II onwards.
    Picture of one here Iso-Speedic Engine Governor


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #22
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    From the pictures I have in an optional equipment catalogue, the unit is similar but mounted on the other side.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #23
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    more

    Hi all and a bit more work carried out since the last post, I have removed all the steel from around the PTO and removed the PTO. It's the original Land Rover PTO and the previous owner has replaced the bearings and it is in very good condition so it's been cleaned and stored away. The engine is indeed the original Land Rover engine and will be taken to Bundaberg for overhaul on removal haven't found the number yet as there is too much foreign stuff on it , the rear chassis isn't in good shape so I hope to purchase a new rear section and weld it on. The front diff, steering assembly and suspension are all out and trying to get the front bumper off as there are no hexagons on the four bolts only nuts in the small cavity they sit in so I need to get a small reciprocating saw to remove the nuts. Keep you posted and some pictures for the next post.

  4. #24
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    Hi guys and I have finally entered the engine bay so the engine number is 25181254F which I hope makes my engine a Rover and original and with the Chassis number 24306543B around 1962! The steering seems to be over complicated having restored champs which have a Rack & Pinion type mechanism compared to the number of Rod End swivels that need replacing on the Rover but I am confident it will all go back nicely.
    Regards
    Paul

  5. #25
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    Feb 2021
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    pictures

    Hi all and some pictures for you all to dwell over, hasn't been the easiest vehicle I have ever stripped but I am getting there. Hope they all the pictures come up and tomorrow I will be taking the rest of the brake lines and electrical harness off I hope. Not too bad so far but a lot of rust but curable! The girder from the harbour bridge may be getting some treatment in the next few days so wish me luck.
    Not sure whether I am on the right page or is there a restoration section for series 2a vehicles? Haven't found a year of manufacture yet.
    Regards
    Paul
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #26
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    pictures

    Someone asked for some Champ pictures, These two are the first ones I restored and they are consecutive serial numbers WNI16000 AND WNI16001. I sold 16001 a number of years ago and the guy who bought it gave me the series 11 I am restoring now. I also did a resto on a Morris C8. I also restored the Australian number 5 trailer in the picture which was pretty cactus.
    Paul
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  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Westlake ,brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Davies View Post
    Hi all and some pictures for you all to dwell over, hasn't been the easiest vehicle I have ever stripped but I am getting there. Hope they all the pictures come up and tomorrow I will be taking the rest of the brake lines and electrical harness off I hope. Not too bad so far but a lot of rust but curable! The girder from the harbour bridge may be getting some treatment in the next few days so wish me luck.
    Not sure whether I am on the right page or is there a restoration section for series 2a vehicles? Haven't found a year of manufacture yet.
    Regards
    Paul
    When you remove the wiring from the chassis make sure you attach a pull wire to it so when installing the new one you have something to pull it through with. And yes you are using the correct page for your restoration.

  8. #28
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    Feb 2021
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    Thanks for the tip with the wiring all good thanks, strip is progressing and have removed the portion of the harbour bridge at last I have no oxy so half dozen cutting disc's did the job. Still no idea why the thing was on there. I have a question for all on the body panels as they seem to have what I would describe as "dampening compound" on them, it looks like bog but it is quite thick in places. any ideas?
    PaulDSCN1334.jpg

  9. #29
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    May 2012
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    Just a guess about your "harbour bridge girder". It "may" have been the mounting for either a boom spray, or an air seeder, my best bet the former.
    The extra mounting plate above the rear PTO "may" have been the mounting for a pump of some description, as the PTO appears to have been fitted with a sprocket for a chain drive. Added to that is the Heath Robinson towing jaws for attaching some form of trailing implement or perhaps a tank.

    No idea about the crap on the inside of the panels.

  10. #30
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    Apr 2019
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    South Australia
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    Is the bog on all panels including inside the cab or just on exterior panels?

    On the ex farm truck I scrapped there was a mix of tar on some, but others were caked with dried on fertiliser or similar which formed a cream coloured layer over all underside panels.

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