Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Gearbox clatter on overrun/coasting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Adelaide SA
    Posts
    3
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Gearbox clatter on overrun/coasting

    Hi all, if you're on FB or insta you may know me as symons_landy
    If not, hello, I'm not new here, plenty of advice yielded from these pages, but not sure if I've actually posted here before. I'm in Adelaide SA.

    Anyway quick background - I've spent a couple of years rebuilding a 1966 series 2a 88"
    You can see the build here: Symon's landy on insta or alternatively here: Landrover restoration album

    Here's a pic.
    Symons_landy very small.jpg

    It's been back on the road since early March and have been racking up the miles and adjusting, fixing, modifying the last few things as I go.
    I had my gearbox rebuilt by a Landy specialist near the Barossa in SA. Lovely bloke, very knowledgeable and thorough, who works out of a workshop at his property. I was recommended him by a few folks in SA. He was very specific about getting NOS/genuine or at the very least OEM parts which I managed to find over a few months at some expense.

    However since the gearbox has been back in the car it makes quite a clatter on overrun/coasting. Its VERY distracting. The noise is quite evident at certain revs, and again only when no power on overrun., like a rattle/clatter/gear chatter, but abnormally loud. I've taken it back to him a couple of times and we are both pretty sure it's coming from the transfer case. When the Roamerdrive is engaged the noise is even more prominent. Again only on overrun.

    The gearbox functions perfectly. Nice crisp changes (for a landy), doesn't jump out of gear. Clutch engages properly and at the same point everytime. Whines like a landy box but not anything I'd consider different.

    Here's some experiments run with no change in the noise:
    • Removed Roamerdrive and refit the original PTO cover. - Noise the same as when Roamer is not engaged.
    • Run the vehicle stationary with the transfer case in neutral
    • Removed front prop shaft
    • Removed rear prop shaft
    • Removed rear prop shaft and handbrake drum - some folks on FB said the sound is like handbrake shoes clattering.
    • Changed oil to thicker 90-140 instead of general 90


    So where next?
    Mechanic thinks one of two things
    - worn transfer case gears, we didn't replace them on the original rebuild as by a sight inspection they seemed perfectly serviceable. Worn yes, but nowhere near replacement level.
    - excessive backlash noise exacerbated by the fact on overrun the motor is a little surgey. I rebuilt the Solex myself - now I'm not a carby specialist, but I have rebuilt a few in my time (although not a Solex I admit).

    Is it worth sourcing new gears for the transfer case on the chance it may be that? Should I look elsewhere? Know anyone excellent in Adelaide area who works on carbies. I had a guy in Kent Town who I swore by, he then moved out to Woodside, but then Finch's took his shop over and he moved on to other things.

    I can supply a few videos of the sound, although if you don't know exactly what I can hear, some folk can't isolate the noise in the video.

    Happy for constructive advice.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    6,568
    Total Downloaded
    0
    No the noise is unlikely to be the transfer case , given the overrun clatter was not there before gearbox rebuild , and is there after the gearbox, plus the fact that you eliminated front and rear axles by removing drive shafts in turn , I would suggested old mate that rebuilt your gearbox maybe fell asleep at the wheel.

    Drain the gearbox oil and see if it's got any evidence of metal in it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    89
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Seconded the idea of draining the oil and checking for metal.

    You mention it only happens on overrun - is that only in third/fourth? If so I'd start suspecting the piece of crap bronze bushing for third/fourth. It splits quite easily, and it's only held in place by a tiny little pin. If you're using GL5 gearbox oil that's apparently not good for it either. My gearbox did the same thing before I rebuilt it - the bushing had split but there were also a pile of other issues, so hard to narrow it down further. Land Rover Restoration Part 2 - Gearbox 1/2 - YouTube is worth a watch if you haven't seen it, along with part 2.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    413
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You can get over run noise from the transfer case if there is too much play or end float in the bearings that carry the main shaft in the transfer box.

    End float is set by the speedo housing, has that been taken off?

    I rebuilt box gear box and transfer case and had bad over run rattle and that was the cause.

    Adelaide based as well if I can be of any help.

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,510
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Before getting into the internals of the gearbox/tc, you need to make certain it is a real issue.

    When on the overrun, compared to driving, because the engine/gearbox/tc is on rubber mounts, they move, since the torque is in the opposite direction. There is a very good chance that this brings some part of the assembly closer to the body/chassis so that it touches and transmits the normal vibration to the body panels so that it acts as a sounding board. This sort of effect can give exactly the symptoms described.

    The most likely points of contact are somewhere on the exhaust system or the overdrive lever linkage, but there are other possibilities as well. Landrovers are very good at this sort of thing because there is no sound deadening and the bolt together body means that clearances vary substantially from car to car.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    210
    Total Downloaded
    0
    G'day All,

    Just a comment on Roamerdrive. The oil you should be using in Transfer case and Roamerdrive is a GL4 fully synthetic 75W/85 oil. Go the Roamerdrive website to read all about why you have to use a GL4 oil.

    Chris

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Adelaide SA
    Posts
    3
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the suggestions folks.

    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    No the noise is unlikely to be the transfer case , given the overrun clatter was not there before gearbox rebuild , and is there after the gearbox, plus the fact that you eliminated front and rear axles by removing drive shafts in turn , I would suggested old mate that rebuilt your gearbox maybe fell asleep at the wheel.

    Drain the gearbox oil and see if it's got any evidence of metal in it.
    I should clarify - I'd never driven the gearbox before rebuild (car was a non-running project)
    I have checked the oil twice over the 1000 or so km since rebuild. No metal apart from the expected slight silveryness that comes with new internals.

    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Before getting into the internals of the gearbox/tc, you need to make certain it is a real issue.

    When on the overrun, compared to driving, because the engine/gearbox/tc is on rubber mounts, they move, since the torque is in the opposite direction. There is a very good chance that this brings some part of the assembly closer to the body/chassis so that it touches and transmits the normal vibration to the body panels so that it acts as a sounding board. This sort of effect can give exactly the symptoms described.

    The most likely points of contact are somewhere on the exhaust system or the overdrive lever linkage, but there are other possibilities as well. Landrovers are very good at this sort of thing because there is no sound deadening and the bolt together body means that clearances vary substantially from car to car.
    I have checked this too. Its not close enough to the exhaust to touch. I did think maybe something like the overdrive lever, but it still made the noise without the overdrive and associated attachments removed.


    Its bound to be something internal. I did supply a new one piece bronze bush.
    I suspect its something like you've mentioned Cadas:


    Quote Originally Posted by Cadas View Post
    You can get over run noise from the transfer case if there is too much play or end float in the bearings that carry the main shaft in the transfer box.
    End float is set by the speedo housing, has that been taken off?
    I rebuilt box gear box and transfer case and had bad over run rattle and that was the cause.
    Adelaide based as well if I can be of any help.


    We'll see if he finds anything this week and I might chat more with you given you're local.

    Quote Originally Posted by Busted Syncro View Post
    Just a comment on Roamerdrive. The oil you should be using in Transfer case and Roamerdrive is a GL4 fully synthetic 75/85 oil. Go the Roamerdrive website to read all about why you have to use a GL4 oil.
    Chris
    I'll definitely have a read. Thanks.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North Victoria
    Posts
    457
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Gearbox clatter

    Just a thought you stated you had not driven the vehicle until completion of refurbishment, if you replace components in a drive train they may not match the existing parts exactly and as such you may get some unusual noises until such parts either become meshed/ mated to the existing components or the high spots wear off. Harmonic vibrations are common in engines and gear trains and can appear under different load conditions.
    For example Cummins 855 inline six engines harmonic critical revs is 1450 rpm if the harmonic balancer fails when the engine is at 1450 rpm under load it sounds like it is about to fail when driven at those revolutions. Change the failed component and the engine will run smooth. Drive trains are the same all the rotating components must be balanced and the mating surfaces in the same condition or you will get abnormal noises.
    My thoughts are if there is no metal particles in the oil drive it for a few thousand kilometers and see if it quietens down things take time to settle in.

    Gippy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Adelaide SA
    Posts
    3
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    Just a thought you stated you had not driven the vehicle until completion of refurbishment, if you replace components in a drive train they may not match the existing parts exactly and as such you may get some unusual noises until such parts either become meshed/ mated to the existing components or the high spots wear off. Harmonic vibrations are common in engines and gear trains and can appear under different load conditions.
    For example Cummins 855 inline six engines harmonic critical revs is 1450 rpm if the harmonic balancer fails when the engine is at 1450 rpm under load it sounds like it is about to fail when driven at those revolutions. Change the failed component and the engine will run smooth. Drive trains are the same all the rotating components must be balanced and the mating surfaces in the same condition or you will get abnormal noises.
    My thoughts are if there is no metal particles in the oil drive it for a few thousand kilometers and see if it quietens down things take time to settle in.

    Gippy
    I frogot to return adn give an update, and Gippslander you are correct 100%
    I took it back to the gearbox guy. He was still reasonably sure its purely gear chatter. We went for a lenghty drive without the middle seat and plate in (open to the box) and he could clearly hear what I was talking about. Emptied the oil, nothing in it.
    He was very thorough and took the gearbox out, and completely stripped in down again. I visited a couple of times during this process for updates. We repalced a few more internal parts we didn't last time, and put it back together. Resintalled and the nosie is still there. Slightly reduced, but there. Only on overrun - a little noticeable in 4th (maybe 3rd if you listen really hard) but as soon as the Roamer engages its very apparent again. Car drives amazing and generally quiet apart from this sound.

    Anyway, Landy life, done a thousand km since then with no issue.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mirboo North Victoria
    Posts
    457
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have just got my 2A on the road (on an unregistered permit) and have been test driving it to sort gremlins before I take it in for roadworthy. Like you I rebuilt gearbox but didn’t refurbish the transfer case. Upon internal inspection I found the gears, shafts and bearings to be in very good condition so I fitted new seals and mounted on the gearbox. I must mention the transfer case was from a Series 3 that I had and I chose to use it as it had the later modifications to the original.
    Like you I have noticed a slight howl on overrun which I believe is caused by the old gears running on the different output gears from the gearbox than it was used to. Time will tell but I am prepared to live with it for now just happy to be close to registering it. Hope your unit improves only time will tell.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!