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Thread: Smoke at start up

  1. #11
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    [quote=Rangier Rover;847045]
    Quote Originally Posted by olmate View Post
    Thanks Tony, I think that I shall have to learn to live with it also. The head has been done up properly for the ulp conversion so I suspect that the seals have done as you suggest.

    Warning.... Can be a bit embarrassing in a car park of near a pub
    Tony
    Probably no more embarrassing than starting up a 300TDi and from what I can make out, they are actually designed to blow a small cloud of black smoke on startup.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    If it is blue smoke it is almost certainly valve stem seals.

    John
    ^^^That

    Easy repair, just need a fitting to fit the plug hole and add compressed air, then a tool to compress the valve springs, swap the seal and all is well

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    ^^^That

    Easy repair, just need a fitting to fit the plug hole and add compressed air, then a tool to compress the valve springs, swap the seal and all is well
    Correct if it is the cup seals. It also helps if when working on the cylinder in question, the piston is at top dead centre. If the vehicle is diesel, the compressed air is not needed. If it is the O-ring seals, the head must come off.

    Aaron.

  4. #14
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    I think I have the same problem. I have a new set of valve stem seals waiting for me in Katherine when I get around to it. I seem to recall that they're the same as Ferguson tractor ones.

    My smoking, though, only occurs when starting the engine hot. I find it takes quite a bit of cranking to get it started, and then it sends out a short thick belch of smoke. I did find a way around it, but it's completely impractical for everyday use - lift the air cleaner hose off the carby before starting. It seems to percolate fuel in the carby when hot and not running, and the Zenith doesn't have an atmosphere vent like the Holden Stromberg. I'm thinking it saturates the air in the hose with fuel vapour and this makes it hard to start hot. Starting from cold is just fine.

    My engine is also about 18 months old, but has always done it. It's on its second set of valve stem seals, the first set shattered like glass when I tried to get them off. Hopefully, the set of MF seals my mate has for me will be heat resistant. I have found out that PBRs black plastic seals (eg. wheel bearing, transmission, timing case) are not heat resistant. Maybe some of these valve stem seals are made cheaply as well.

    Dan.
    69 2A 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2B FC pet6.

  5. #15
    olmate Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    I will address each numbered point.

    1. How many miles has the engine done since the rebuild? Were the valve stem seals replaced? Were the valves replaced? Were the valve guides replaced?
    She has done under 8500 miles and in that - only a couple of longer trips as I drive her these days to / from work. Although I haven't looked, I did pay to have all these thing replaced and (fingers crossed) that is what happened.

    2. When I rebuilt my 2.25L, I could see daylight between the valve stem seals and the valve stems. The engine was not consuming more oil than normal. The valves were a good fit in the valve guides.
    This engine doesn't consume any more oil than normal (although it could do with a change soon). When the head was done - the report back was a positive one.

    3. The oil pipe at the back of the head is actually the pressurised oil feed to the head. The oil drains from the head throught the channels for the pushrods.
    Thanks mate - this stops that line of thought that I had.

    I would not be worried about a puff of smoke at start up. If it puffs every time after idling for a while, such as when taking off from the traffic lights, it may get a bit annoying and warrant investigation. If your engine has the later style valve stem seals, the version that are like little cups that slip over the valve guides, they can be changed without removing the head. If your engine has the early style valve stem seals, the O-ring version that sits inside the valve guides, you need to remove the valve, and hence the head to change the seals.

    Aaron.
    Thanks Aaron for the help. My smoke is only at start up and only a small puff out the back. Nothing a traffic lights etc. I reckon that I shall investigate some new seals to instal over the christmas break.

  6. #16
    olmate Guest
    Thanks all again.

    Dan - when you get a chance can you pm me the detail re these seals you speak of and i shall investigate them from this end as well

  7. #17
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by dandlandyman View Post
    ........
    My smoking, though, only occurs when starting the engine hot. I find it takes quite a bit of cranking to get it started, and then it sends out a short thick belch of smoke. I did find a way around it, but it's completely impractical for everyday use - lift the air cleaner hose off the carby before starting. It seems to percolate fuel in the carby when hot and not running, and the Zenith doesn't have an atmosphere vent like the Holden Stromberg. I'm thinking it saturates the air in the hose with fuel vapour and this makes it hard to start hot. Starting from cold is just fine.
    ..........
    I think your problem with starting is probably excessively rich mixture for a hot start, and removing the hose gives a slightly weaker mixture. The rich mixture could have the mechanism you suggest, but I think it unlikely. Another possibility is a partly blocked aircleaner, or incorrect float level, but again, I think these are unlikely. The most likely cause is that the top cover of the Zenith is warped, preventing a good seal on the gasket and O-ring, or the O-ring is not good. I have also had burrs on the screws holding the emulsion block to the top cover prevent the top cover from seating properly.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #18
    olmate Guest
    Here we go again folks .... And reading what I have previously said I realise that I have been very lazy when it comes to addressing this issue with olmate

    I replaced my valve seals over the weekend, the head is good and clean now and all has been cleaned up. Well - as the motor was rebuilt just over 2 yrs ago, it should still look like new inside it I reckon.

    All adjusted fine and she goes very well up the road BUT still puffs smoke at start-up in the afternoon Who reckons I am frustrated now

    So what's next - she starts well in the am, goes like a treat to work and then (when I start her in the arvo to come home) I get a puff of blue smoke before she idles nicely. What to do?? There is no smoke whilst driving or at lights etc its just at the one time in the aro when I start her up

    Any thoughts out there ?

  9. #19
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Is it a bit cranky when hot or warm? Fuel smoke?

    I've given up worrying about it with mine.
    They are worse when warm. Seems like fuel smoke. Maybe a trait with Zenith carbys with that notorious warpage on top plate when warm.
    Mine has the O ring fitted as well.

    Tony

  10. #20
    olmate Guest
    Tony,

    She is fine; not cranky at all - starts and runs well (less the puff of smoke of course).
    I do have a holden carby on it tho, using a paper filter. Running nice and lean without a hitch.

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