Thread: gearbox problems- advice please

what was done as part of the re-machine?

normally the holden motors take out the rear diff and the axle?

what part of the box are you normally taking out? If its the front bearing then your conversion has not been done correctly and the engine is out of line with the gearbox. As the gearbox front bearing relies on the position of the spigot bearing to keep the front shaft in line if the engine is mounted wrong you will quickly wear the input bearing and then take out the support bearing for the input to output shaft (which also makes 3rd and 4th jumpy) and then begins to eat off the primary reduction gear (the first always engaged gearset that drives the layshaft)

if thats your problem turf the adaptor ring on the engine and replace it with a known true one. Then rebuild the box. (I might have an old one kicking around somewhere)

if the front plate of the box has been hammered I dont care how much reworking you do of the shafts until you correctly shim up the bearings in the front plate you wont get a good life out of the box.


best of luck.

the rear diff died the week before the input shaft bearing- we had them fixed at the same time. I have read a few posts here that the 202 might be a bit too much for the rear diff, didn't quite believe it until I saw it. One option we are considering is going back to original 2a engine and gearbox.
sorry for being a little under-educated, but would any of the problems you described below cause the problem of not being able to select ANY gear? It sounds like what you describe is a gradual process, not a sudden failure.

Hi Kristen

You have to think as well can you trust the 202 and the rest of the driveline for your whole trip around Australia? I mean who's to say it won't break another diff?

If you have the option when the gearbox is out to replace the engine with the original EVERYTHING original i think your problems will just dissppear.

Tho getting a 2.25 up to scratch in time might make this option a no no.

its very unusual for a series box to get into such a state that it cant select any gear, usually you can force 4th but it will jump out.

the failure I described can go with a nice "sorry but Im trying to warn you about something not being right and will take the next 2 years to slowly make whiring noises and then make gears jump out before finally giving up with a cacophony of clacks and bangs before finally stripping every gear while making a sound akin to a set of hot wheels cars in a blender" or it can just go...

"bang, clacky grind grind whrrtttltlttllll NO DRIVE FOR YOU."

so when you say its not engaging any gears do you mean as in the shifter cant move the selectors or that the selectors move and its not actually providing drive?

if youve gotten the tunnel cover up you can remove the top of the box to eyeball the selectors, detents and interlocks in case its something there just fouling the motion of the selector rods.

Hi Kirsten

You are having quite a few woes and that't very unfortunate.

While for the purists Holden engines are anathema, the truth is that a huge proportion of Land Rovers that exist today would not be here except for Holden engines.

The Holden engine was a very common conversion and is reliable although a little more thirsty that the 186 engine, which many feel is a better fit for the Land Rover for a number of reasons, mostly the fact that 202's get hot in a Landy so an oil cooler is a serious consideration for the round Australia trip.

AS blknight says, that you are having so many problems is an issue in itself. The Holden engine conversion kit made by Dello Motors had a reputation for being out of alignment and sometimes not even parallel from front to rear. The better adapted plates were the ones made by Johnstone Bros in Geelong Vic or the ones made by Roy Sim in Sydney. I prefer the Roy Sim kit and it can usually be identified as an all steel welded plate while the Johnstone kit was cast iron or aluminium. The dello kits were cast aluminium.

In a 109" the torque of the Holden 202 is liable to break the Rover rear axle components, particularly on rocky climbs. The Salisbury 4.7:1 rear diff from the Series 3 is a good option, are easy to find and provided you get the drive shaft to match your 4 or 6 cyl chassis they are a direct swap. In an 88" the Salisbury conversion is a lot more work because of the pinion length.

I would be having someone who knows about Landies and not the person who did your recent work do an audit of what's happening.

Diana

forgot....

you need to let us know where you're at... there may be people who are willing to help you out or that know of good places to go to get the work done locally to you.

I have some spares that you can get a lend of if needed on a "get you to limping" basis to keep you mobile while you get your gear rebuilt.


I also have a sals that you can get an eyeball at to work out weather you want to think about going that way (I did and would again).

For a round australia trip I would back a holden motor over a rover. Even if they do break down (not likely if set up properly with HEI ignition and proper thermostat & cooling system) they are VERY easy to get parts for, anyone can get stuff for a red motor but LRs are a little less common. I agree with the comment about the conversion plate being out. What not try a IIA 'box next time round - sure its a crash box but it should be a little stronger than the SIII 'box. Just go easier on the right foot to avoid diff breakages

If you still have the IIA box I would be slipping that back in........once you are absolutely certain that the engine is in alignment and is not going to flog your gear box to bits.

The IIA box is, in my opinion, by far the better,and stronger, box.(One of the best gear boxs ever built by Rover

The 2.25 engine is one of the wonders of the world....has taken Land Rovers all around the world and through some very ruggered terrain, and is more than capable of taking you around AUSTRALIA.