Thread: Twice my age, crosseyed and can't hold her fluids in but ain't she sweet

isuzutoo-eh

Great thread! Very envious of your vehicle! How did you go with the 1/8" copper tubing? I have some 1/8" stainless steel tubing you could have if required.
Let me know

Gary

Hi Gary,
Thanks for your comments. I managed to solder the copper tubing back together and its holding vacuum, unlike the advance diaphragm. If it does cause me troubles though I will definately seek your assistance

Chazza, I'm going to be lazy this time and get someone with a workshop and talent to fit the rocker bushes and reassemble the shaft. I need an easy win with my Landies before I want to throw in the towel

I'm going off my rocker! Last year, I pushed the bushes back into the rockers, as Charlie predicted they need reaming to fit the shaft. My tools aren't good enough to expect concentricity. After a pointer from my preferred Landie mechanic, I asked a local engineering shop to help me. Today I picked up my parts, unfinished. Seems that reaming them is a difficult job, and I was advised to see if there is any easier option (aka, getting bits that fit from the start), before going ahead with the potentially expensive machining job.

The parts I have all came in LR genuine packaging, from Paddocks I seem to recall. The bushes are at most 0.8mm too tight for the shaft.

Has anyone any pointers on reaming these damned rocker bushes?

Remember they have a slit to allow them to 'crush' into the housing, have an oil hole that has to be aligned with the same in the housing, and have oil galleries. The material is brass coated in whitemetal AFAIK. Very easy to ream out of concentric.

I noticed there is more than one type of rocker-diesels have a shorter length than petrol, but the shaft was the same when I compared my two engines. Perhaps I have the wrong bushes? Is there more than one type of 2.25 petrol rocker or shaft?







This step has been so long in process that I have forgotten what else needs to be done (this thread is handy to see whats been done!) and some oil weeps have developed

In other news, I couldn't help myself: I bought a Jac Mac diff lock from the markets here. Not one of those fancy air operated ones, but a bolt action job. Would have been rare and highly desirable when new, a bit of a curiosity now, but will work well nontheless! Will make my 2a more capable than my County if I get her running...
Thanks Bruce and Sam for that one

Been watching this thread to see when mary would ready for a trip maybe a call to brian or george at LVS to see who does their machine work

PS: putting a locker in a series is cheating just get stuck like the rest of us

After the last few trips with you in The Booger and Sam in his Series, I'm stoked up to get some Serious Series action of my own.

Yeah the locker is cheating, I want to learn to drive better lines in general before using a locker so won't install it for a while anyway

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

The material is brass coated in whitemetal AFAIK. Very easy to ream out of concentric.

I noticed there is more than one type of rocker-diesels have a shorter length than petrol, but the shaft was the same when I compared my two engines. Perhaps I have the wrong bushes?

My parts book lists the diesel rocker-bushes as: Exhaust 247738; Inlet 247737 and the petrol for both as: 247614.

0.8mm seems a bit excessive to me, especially to ream it all away,

Cheers Charlie

Shonky dropped in this arvo when I was meant to be working.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFp7873iIKE"]Dirty Mary 1 - YouTube[/ame]




Timing is still out. Still a few leaks to ponder over, all the electrics that Geoff and Geoff helped out with work perfectly (well, right side blinker is still slower than the left), I need to change the gearbox and transfer oil, and put the roadworthy wheels that my County keeps borrowing on.

So it's right for this weekend then.

How many pins on the flaser can? If I remember, it's possible to wire some up so they work but not fully correctly.