Thread: Matillda 67 2a 88

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Well, it is certainly not the original alternator, seeing that they were not even an option on the four cylinder 2a - it would have originally have had a generator. In my view the change to an alternator is worthwhile as the Lucas generators tend to give a lot of trouble in dusty conditions.

The wiring alterations are pretty simple if you use an alternator with a built in regulator - a wire from the ignition via the charge light and a direct wire to the battery (or probably the starter solenoid). You will need to joint together the wires that go to the B terminal on the original regulator, and it can then be removed. The D terminal wire on the regulator is not used with the alternator.

John

Thanks john
just another question, what about all the other wires that are atatched to the regulator there are 5 terminals with 8 wires atatched to them.... ops I just took some pics it seemsthere are 4 terminats 2*A, 1*B,1*D and 1*E. So the question is what to do with the other wires?


So the 2 wires on terminal D are not needed then? The thicker one is the old generator output wire and was not conected to the alternator and I think the thin one was conected to the plug at the rear of the alternator.
Cheers
Joel

A is the power feed from the battery (actually the starter solenoid). Also has attached to it (unfused!) the lead to the sockets on the dash.
A1 is the power feed to the ignition switch and via a fuse to the interior light if fitted. You need to join A1 and A - I simply made a double ended male spade connector and taped it.

F is the field for the generator - not used with an alternator)
D is the generator output, not used with an alternator, but the thin wire comes from the switched ignition voltage via the generator light and needs to go to the IND terminal on the alternator.

E is the earth lead for the regulator, and is not used if you are removing the regulator.

Hope this helps.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

A is the power feed from the battery (actually the starter solenoid). Also has attached to it (unfused!) the lead to the sockets on the dash.
A1 is the power feed to the ignition switch and via a fuse to the interior light if fitted. You need to join A1 and A - I simply made a double ended male spade connector and taped it.

F is the field for the generator - not used with an alternator)
D is the generator output, not used with an alternator, but the thin wire comes from the switched ignition voltage via the generator light and needs to go to the IND terminal on the alternator.

E is the earth lead for the regulator, and is not used if you are removing the regulator.

Hope this helps.

John

Cheers John thats exactly the info I needed.

On a different note I had a chance to atack the bulkhead thismorning befor work and got all the bolts undone and the hydrolics disconected. Now I just have to round up some help to lift it off then I can remove the engine.
Cheers
Joel

Hi all.
Well a mate came over and lended some much needed muscle today and as a result the bulkhead is now off! We had a few dramas getting it clear of the steering collum and the geerstick but nothing a bit of shoving and man-handling didn't fix.



The outriggers look serviceable and the bulkhead mounts themselves appear good to.

So after a quick cleen the engine and geerbox will be next. Then I can move it arround the back to the delight of war and finance minister. She can finaly have her front yard back after 5 months.
Cheers
Joel

Mate you're a trooper - I just got tired looking at the photos

All the best, looks like a nice challenge!

Cheers, Dave.