Thread: Where do I get parts

Welcome aboard, and congratulations.


Most parts come up fairly regularly on E-bay, except the dual gauge. You should be able to get it restored though, there are a few guys around that do that sort of thing.

Your local auto-pro, sprint, etc. should be able to sorce the tie rod ends fairly easily, although E-bay has them alot of the time.


Have fun.

G'day mate, my series 2 project is now almost finished! I tried replacing the leaf spring bushes but ended up buying new springs
Such a pain! I found ebay was pretty good but i got almost all of my parts
from a place here in victoria Four Wheel Drives - Land Rovers New and Used Spare Parts
They are not the closest to you i know but they have a parts catalogue to die for.

If you are going to buy stuff from the eastern states, you would be well advised to use either Land Vehicle Spares or All FourX4 in NSW.

I agree with Shonky - I buy parts on occasion from Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne - they have a good catalogue, and excellent delivery. And their prices are cheap. But this is the problem. Many of their parts are the cheapest available, and quality to match, which is fine if that is what you are after!

But if you want to know you are getting quality parts try one of the others.

John

Welcome to AULRO, any chance you can tell us the chassis number of your command recon for REMLR ??

Originally Posted by matpoli

Hey guys I have just inherited an X army recon Series II from my father and his brother and I am loving it. ...
... What is still left is to replace is

1. the bushes front and back that the springs hinge on, I heard they are a pain
2. The oil/temp gauge needs replacing
3. the tie rod ends for the steering need replacing
4. I want to fit free wheeling hubs as well.

Thanks,
Mat

Mat

Congrats on the acquisition!

In regards to your list. I use All 4 X four in Kotara NSW or Land Vehicle Spares and avoid the mob in Blackburn South but you are in WA so there may be someone closer to you ask Chazza or someone else locally.

1/ The chassis bushes you may have to burn out the rubber with a propane torch then cut the shell out with a hack saw. Make sure you grease the pin well when you re-fit.
2/ They are still available from a lot of places. Try John Craddocks or Dunsfold's in the UK.
3/ Make sure that the tie rod ends you get have the un-threaded shoulder (see below).



Many parts suppliers will tell you that the ones with the thread all the way along are suitable for all Series Land Rovers from 1948 through 1982. This is incorrect and fitting the completely threaded ones to a Series 1 or series 2/2a is both unsafe and illegal. You can get the shouldered ones from All 4 X Four upon request.
4/ I would/will not fit freewheeling hubs. There are as many disadvantages as there are advantages. Do an AuLRO search on freewheeling hubs and make a decision.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

..........
Many parts suppliers will tell you that the ones with the thread all the way along are suitable for all Series Land Rovers from 1948 through 1982. This is incorrect and fitting the completely threaded ones to a Series 1 or series 2/2a is both unsafe and illegal. You can get the shouldered ones from All 4 X Four upon request.
4/ I would/will not fit freewheeling hubs. There are as many disadvantages as there are advantages. Do an AuLRO search on freewheeling hubs and make a decision.

Diana

I agree entirely with Diana on this but would caution that you must also check the tube they are screwing into to make sure that it is the correct one for the tierod end. Using one with the clamped bit threaded on one bit and smooth on the other (either way) is unsafe and has resulted in fatal accidents.

I would probably not bother with freewheeling hubs - despite the fact I have them on my 2a; they are rarely disengaged. Driving for extended periods with free wheeling hubs disengaged will lead to a variety of problems with the swivels and possibly the diff and drive shaft. I have been unable to measure any difference to fuel consumption with them, and there is no subjective change in performance or noise/vibration. (I paid $15 for mine, complete with a chassis and bulkhead plus front and rear axles/ springs, so I have lost little!)

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I agree entirely with Diana on this but would caution that you must also check the tube they are screwing into to make sure that it is the correct one for the tierod end. Using one with the clamped bit threaded on one bit and smooth on the other (either way) is unsafe and has resulted in fatal accidents.

I would probably not bother with freewheeling hubs - despite the fact I have them on my 2a; they are rarely disengaged. Driving for extended periods with free wheeling hubs disengaged will lead to a variety of problems with the swivels and possibly the diff and drive shaft. I have been unable to measure any difference to fuel consumption with them, and there is no subjective change in performance or noise/vibration. (I paid $15 for mine, complete with a chassis and bulkhead plus front and rear axles/ springs, so I have lost little!)

John

Yes that's correct John, as you know the shouldered tie rod ends and steering links were the original equipment on the Series 2, so if they are not present (like the strongberg carby) then the vehicle is a hybrid and care always has to be taken when replacing bits.

The F/W hub issue is the subject of a number of threads, I personally do not use them and in fact remove F/W hubs from vehicles upon purchase. So the matter is very much a personal preference but the choice should be made after reading ALL sides of the issue, not just because someone's mate suggests them or not.

Diana