Thread: Brake system overhaul

nope its not mandatory to fit the servo with the dual brakes the early diesels that got the dual line brakes didnt have it so it can be done.

depending on your leg strength depends on weather or not you want to fit it.

First of all, many, many thanks to Diana for coming up with a servo unit and pedal box out of a Series 3, it's much appreciated.

Now some questions about plumbing . . .

Can anyone confirm that brake hose NRC9457 is the same as 268341, or is the former metric?

I've got a proportioning valve NRC4880, with different thread sizes for the front and rear brakes. The rears are 3/8", so that matches all the Series 2 fittings no problems. The front threads are bigger - does anyone know what the size of the thread is?

TeriAnn Wakeman (Series Land Rover Dual Power brake conversion) says that there are different dual line master cylinders for 88" and 109". I've got a 109" front end with dual slave cylinders, so I'll need the 109". However, the Series 3 parts manual only lists one master cylinder for use with a servo, NRC6096. Can anyone confirm this is the correct one?

If NRC 6096 is correct, can anyone confirm that it has thread sizes for the pipes which match the NRC4880?

Thanks in advance, folks.

Peter.

I find it interesting that people doing up Series 2/2a Landrovers find dual braking systems necessary. After all, there are many other aspects of the vehicle that are deficient in safety compared to current vehicles, yet they do not appear to stand out in safety statistics.

I have now been driving for over fifty years, a large proportion of it in vehicles with single circuit brakes - and have never suffered brake failure. In fact the only brake failure I have direct experience of was when my teenage son lost a wheel on his Beetle (due to a mechanic failing to install a splitpin in the nut holding the rear hub), which as it had single circuit brakes meant not only no service brakes but no handbrake as well.

Certainly with single circuit brakes you need to keep a good eye on the condition of the brake components - but then you need to with any brakes.

John

Well, there's a couple of answers to that.

In 1969, I had a brake pipe fail in a Mini, and went into the back of the car in front. It' extremely unlikely to happen again, because I'm no longer driving in English conditions, salt on the road and so on, and it's also possible to maintain a vehicle in much better condition in the Australian climate.

My second thought is always - if the Rover engineer who designed the Series 2 (you know him, he had a tweed suit, a moustache and a pipe) was designing the vehicle now, and not in post-war Britain, what would he do? I hope the vehicle I eventually end up with will be consistent with the way the engineer would like to have done it, if he had had the money and the engineering.

Peter

if you are going to all this trouble i would reccomend new pads on the brake shoes and skimming the drums - makes a HUGE difference, especially you your brakes had been swimming in diff oil like mine had been

I got the original master cylinder rebuilt & stainless steel sleeved along with all new slave cylinders, new pads on the shoes, skimmed drums, new flexable brake lines and a couple of new break lines bent up for RWC a few months ago

Gotta say, what a difference!! I can lock front wheels in the dry with a strong enough push on the pedal now This is on an ex-army 109" IIA with the standard single system, unboosted brakes

Still needs more bleeding though... needs at least 1 good pump to get the pedal nice and hard

If you have to pump the brake pedal but it is hard without being at all spongy I would sugggest that the brakes need adjusting and not bleeding. The purpose of bleeding is to remove air which can compress making the pedal spongy. Excessive brake travel occurs due to clearance in the pad to drum, and this has to be accounted for with the snail cam adjusters.

Originally Posted by foz.in.oz

If you have to pump the brake pedal but it is hard without being at all spongy I would sugggest that the brakes need adjusting and not bleeding. The purpose of bleeding is to remove air which can compress making the pedal spongy. Excessive brake travel occurs due to clearance in the pad to drum, and this has to be accounted for with the snail cam adjusters.

Exactly.

Can anyone tell me the thread sizes of the brake pipe fittings on a NRC4880 proportioning valve and a NRC6096 master cylinder? I'm pretty sure the proportioning valve has 3/8 UNF and 7/16 UNF fittings, and the master cylinder has a 3/8 UNF, but what the other fitting on the master cylinder is I have no idea. It's about 12mm in size, but it's not metric and I don't think it's UNF either.

Any help appreciated, thanks, Peter.