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Thread: Series 2a 4wd capability?

  1. #21
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matpoli View Post
    Hi guys reading this has got me thinking. My series 2 did ok in the mud but the springs don't look that good, they are rusted to the point where they have swelled.

    Do you think they are still effective or can I grease/oil them up to get better performance from them.

    Sorry that I keep poping up with my own issues but here is a great place to learn.

    thx for any help you can offer
    As Ben says. They are worth looking after.

    Remove the springs, and clamp them in a vice. remove the centrebolt and clamps to disassemble them and remove the rust by wire brushing followed by sanding or grinding to smooth them. Avoid removing too much metal, but round the edge where the leaves slide on each other and remove any ridges that have built up by wear. Reassemble with the mating surfaces covered in graphite grease, MoS2 grease or antiseize. The springs may then need resetting as Ben explains.

    John
    Last edited by JDNSW; 27th August 2009 at 06:24 AM. Reason: typo
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    . Reassemble with the mating surfaces covered in graphite grease, MoS2 grease or antiseize. The springs may then need resetting as Ben explains.

    John

    NO....NONONONONo.

    No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.

    you can use a teflon dry lube, teflon end pads and even teflon sheets betwean each leaf..

    all of that gets done after you clean up everything as you're bolting it together but BEFORE you send them off to be reset (if they need it)When you send them off to be reset be sure to tell the mob that you use that you want them reset and assembled with the teflon goodies in place.


    If you have a look at some trucks and the HD leaves for some toyota and nissan tray backs you will see a small round pad glued between some or all leaves Thats the teflon pad.
    Dave

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  3. #23
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    If I may, I'll just put my 2cents in,,

    Many years ago, my first 4x4 was a S3 SWB ute which had been let go on a farm. Badly worn suspension and grass growing inside the cab, in the window rails and ute body, and bar tread tyres,, I did wonder if I'd made the right choice,,

    Took her to Pedders where they installed new standard springs and shocks,, and spent lots of time and TLC on the rest of her,, oh,, and some Kumho tyres,,

    Even loaded to the max with all my gear, she used to be reffered to as "the bulldozer" because the theory was, If I couldnt get through, neither could anyone else, But if I did, I could guide/pull the others through,, She was unstopable except for "my" mistakes..

    Learning to drive the old girl was a breeze and started my love and allience for Rovers of all sorts, and has shown me that with planning and a whisker of luck, they go further than any other 4x4 in standard form.

    Cheers, Chops

  4. #24
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    NO....NONONONONo.

    No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.
    .....
    Actually I agree with you - unless it is not going to be used in dusty conditions. If used only in wet conditions or only on road, then greasing the leaves will repel moisture rather than attract it.

    In dusty conditions (let's face it - most of Australia) as you say, oil or grease will hold the dust and it will act as grinding paste. But the problem with the original poster's springs is not wear due to dust, but rust due to water, and in this case grease is the lesser evil, looking at it mainly as a water repellent rather than a lubricant.

    John
    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    NO....NONONONONo.

    No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.

    you can use a teflon dry lube, teflon end pads and even teflon sheets betwean each leaf..

    all of that gets done after you clean up everything as you're bolting it together but BEFORE you send them off to be reset (if they need it)When you send them off to be reset be sure to tell the mob that you use that you want them reset and assembled with the teflon goodies in place.
    BULLDUST - won't harm your springs - even if greased

    I used to grease my springs regularly (reminds me I need to do it again) - and drive in all manner of dusty/sandy roads in dry QLD summers. No ill effects in 15 years, AND it has stopped the springs rusting.

    If anything, the "grinding paste" would help keep the leaves rust free. I doubt much would get in between the leaves anyway.

    Teflon pads are quite soft, and I am sure sand and grit would be embedded into them.

    AND - most manufacturers specify that springs should be greased, e.g.:

    Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids (MB BeVo)
    268.0 Leaf spring grease (Specification 268.0)


    268.0 Leaf spring grease (Specification 268.0)
    Last update: 08/04/2009
    Castrol Viscogen 4 Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
    INA Grafitna Pasta 32 Maziva-Zagreb d.o.o., Zagreb/CROATIA
    A final comment on resetting, make sure the person doing the resetting either does a hot reset or retempers the springs afterwards. Many just do cold resets, and IME, cold resets are not as resistant to sag.

  6. #26
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    I have sceen old photos of cars from the 1920s that have a leather sleve over the leaf springs and laced along the bottom, this was used to help keep the dust and crap out of the leaves.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lost Landy View Post
    I have sceen old photos of cars from the 1920s that have a leather sleve over the leaf springs and laced along the bottom, this was used to help keep the dust and crap out of the leaves.
    Yes, was used on some luxury cars but not much else. The most recent I can remember seeing it on was on a 1950s Lanchester.

    John
    John

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  8. #28
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    A mechanic in Corrying that used to service my car, he geases his springs and wraps/binds them in leather, he swore by it, reckons the ride difference to un-greased springs is like chaulk and cheese, and they lasted a lot longer. Another trick he had was to put a grease nipple on the outside of the wheel hub to do the bearings,, this seemed to work too,,

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    NO....NONONONONo.

    No Grease, nothing wet, sticky or slimey. IT will attract dirt and moisture and then you grind your leaves away.
    This argument is often proffered; however; the springs will "grind" themselves with the dry dust that gets in there anyway and with the rust that will develop as soon as they get wet. Teflon pads may work (I have no experience of them) but how will they disperse moisture, especially where the spring pack clamps together under the axle?

    A scrupulous owner will jack the car up and pressure blast the springs regularly and re-lubricate them. Whilst this is tedious and sand will stick, the advantages of a supple ride with minimal rust, surely outweigh any disadvantage,

    Cheers Charlie

  10. #30
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    I had a look in the owners workbook and they say to recon the springs you need to clean them as up you guys have suggested and then apply some graphite grease.

    It doesn't mention getting the springs reset, is that step really necessary?

    I am geting ready to try but the only cost will be getting them reset and that is the bit that is putting me off, oh and i'll insert new bushes as well while i'm at it.

    Thx

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