and here is the (almost) finished motor. The guy who did the head up (neighbour) painted it in Scania Blue and gave me a can of it, IMHO I think it looks pretty good with the black and red.
Finally had a chance to put the motor back in on Saturday.It all went very smoothly and all I need now is a set of radiator hoses and a fan belt (stuffed if I can find the old one). I bought a bypass hose locally and cut it down to size, but I'm not happy with the fit so I am just going to order a set of hoses, fit them, put some oil in it and some water and kick it in the guts. I have a new ignition key switch to fit, as it has a tractor key fitted at the moment but I'm not going to change it until the motor is up and going and I can take care of everything around the dash at the same time. The indicators are on the fritz, the wiper control knob needs looking at and I need to tidy up some of the wiring that is starting to crack and perish.
Can anyone tell me what glow plugs to use in the S3 and what ones not to use. 1 works, 2 don't and I busted the tip of the 4th one. As this is going to be my son's car, I want it as reliable as possible (no I'm not being funny )
Found some new glow plugs in Melbourne(Thanks Jim @ Crystalbling) fitted them and had the injectors checked out. No.4 was a bit ordinary so Gold Coast diesel centre refurbished it(ta John) refitted the injectors, double checked everything and tried to fire it up. It ran like an old goat last week,no acceleration at all and was labouring to idle with a great deal of cold unburnt diesel in the exhaust, which is why I had the injectors checked, but do you think I could get it to fire today? not a chance! its like its trying to run on 2 cylinders and will not fire properly at all. I have diesel everywhere I'm supposed to have it but she wont run, I'm wondering if the injector pump needs looking at but it was running ok before I removed the motor and I marked the position of the injector pump in relation to the timing marker on the block before i removed the pump and re installed it in the same position. I havent touched the timing belt at all and this one has got me a bit baffled. Can anyone suggest some idea's please.
Thanks Ian
Just a thought, the diesel has been in the tank for a year or so since I bought the truck. The inlet pipe has been capped off though?
When you say unburnt diesel, do you mean clouds of white smoke? If so it can be caused by the following:
1. Insufficient pre-heat time. I think I have read on this forum that Land Rovers need about 1.5 min of glow.
2. Incorrect pump timing. Perhaps the last bloke put it back in the wrong place.
3. Very low compression - check the compression pressures as per the manual.
If the smoke is black it indicates partially burnt fuel and can be caused by:
1. Restricted air intake.
2. Dribbly injectors - in your case most probably not. Use CEM to keep them in top condition.
3. Poor compression - check as above.
If there is black smoke present amongst the white it is a reasonably good sign that the pump timing isn't too bad as the fuel is trying to burn.
Recently I had to work on a Ford Super 4 tractor that had been sitting idle for at least 5 years. The injectors were impossible to get at to bleed, so I was restricted to changing the fuel filters and bleeding the pump. It took about 3 min of cranking time before it fired properly, which I put down to old waxy fuel trapped in the injector pipes,
It mainly seems to be white smoke, the motor ran quite well except for the water in no.1 via the head gasket before I pulled it down. I think I may have inadvertently gasket Goo'ed the injector pump in place so I cant adjust the timing, so I'll fix that tomorrow. I also somehow managed to snap off the fuel line retaining bolt on the lift pump trying to stop a fuel leak and at the same time stop it from turning too much and crimping off the line from the filter. somehow, one of the fuel lines between the injectors split and the by-pass water hose off the water pump decided to start leaking (*&*$!#@$ motor cars!)wasn't my day to work on the cars so i gave up and went for a bike ride. Picking up the new fuel pump bolt shortly and will fit it tonight. I was given a diesel timing light a couple of years ago for use on (I think) Toymota coaster buses, anyone ever seen or used one?
hey charlie,
how do you set the injector pump timing? what do you think about replacing the diesel in the tank (over a year old at least). still cant seem to get it to start, it seems to want to fire but IMHO seems to trying to start on 2 cylinders.
I have never worked on a Land Rover diesel so I will not be much help. Your best bet is to buy a workshop manual (paper or CD) and follow the procedure in that.
If it ran well before and you haven't moved the pump, it is unlikely to be the timing causing the starting problems, even though this may need adjusting.
Have you tested the glow plugs and have they been on for about 1.5 minutes before cranking?
If you are not sure how to test them (I am not sure) disconnect the air cleaner trunk and use a heat gun, or a hot hair dryer to pour hot air into the engine, whilst you crank it. This should get it to start especially with the warmer weather now.
Change the fuel if you suspect it is dodgy but this time of year it should be OK - most fuel problems occur when summer fuel goes sludgy on a frosty winter's day.
Have you changed the filter and bled the injectors and pump properly? Air in the wrong place will cause starting hassles,
Not sure if this is relevant for a landrover diesel but when I used to service perkins and kubota diesels on mining equipment, if the injector pump had been off and replaced you had to prime it and purge the system of air, much like bleeding brakes. If I remember rightly you had to crack each injector line at the pump end in sequence while cranking the engine (may need an assistant for this), I don't think it mattered as much as brakes which one you did first. Then when you had a healthy stream of diesel coming from each joint, do the same at the head end where the line attaches to the injector. Same story, crank the engine until you get diesel coming out each join then tighten them while still cranking. On the perkins or kubota diesels, once you had done the second or third injector the motor would normally fire up, assuming all else was ok. It might pay to check your fuel shutoff (if there is one on a land rover diesel motor), this used to fail frequently on mining equipment and as soon as you removed it the motor would start. Even on motors that supposedly had self priming pumps, we did this as it saved lots of time and effort in the long run.
Never ever had a problem with stale diesel, had stuff that was 2 or 3 years old that still allowed the engines to start and run adequately. Climate was quite warm most of the time so this may have preserved it. Of course if it was my vehicle, I would avoid using any stale fuel. But thats just me. Old diesel mixed half and half with kerosene makes a great degreaser or parts wash solution if you don't want to waste it.
Thanks Guys, New glow plugs are in, all the injectors have been tested and repaired where faulty (I watched him do it). I have bled the thing via the workshop manual time and again, via the filter assembly thru to the lift pump and to the injector pump, repaired a couple of leaks, checked all the voltages at the glow plugs, all good there, cleaned out the sedimentor under the drivers seat. I'll try to push the diesel thru with the air compressor in case I have an air lock in the injector pump,as when I picked it up from the farm it grew up on, I remember having a similar problem with starting as it sat for 10 years with no fuel in it and we had to do that to get it to go. Worth a try.
Cheers Ian
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trying to stop a fuel leak and at the same time stop it from turning too much and crimping off the line from the filter. somehow, one of the fuel lines between the injectors split and the by-pass water hose off the water pump decided to start leaking (*&*$!#@$ motor cars!)wasn't my day to work on the cars so i gave up and went for a bike ride. Picking up the new fuel pump bolt shortly and will fit it tonight. I was given a diesel timing light a couple of years ago for use on (I think) Toymota coaster buses, anyone ever seen or used one?
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