STEERING TROUBLES

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Originally Posted by Mick-Kelly

Thats a shame, ive admired this one for a while. Best series three ive seen in a long while. Is there no way to fabricate different length shackles for the front eyes to give it a smidgen of lift and correct the difference.

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I'm going to have another look & double check the measurement. Then i will try & get it on stands & try & level it out..
I'm pretty sure thats what it is the left hand dumb iron needs to be adjusted down i have had a look & took measurements using the front cross member all is well is just that dumb iron..I dont think i allowed for the collaps of the old rusty one . . .
I just dont want to have to pull all the front end off again. . . .

If it is any help mines always listed to the drivers side even when we put other springs in and everyone else we have spoke to said the exact same thing...to do with the fuel tank and driver we asume on the same side:)..heavy a weight.

and before anyone say's anything I am only 62kg:p

Mrs hh:angel:

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Originally Posted by The ho har's

If it is any help mines always listed to the drivers side even when we put other springs in and everyone else we have spoke to said the exact same thing...to do with the fuel tank and driver we asume on the same side:)..heavy a weight.

and before anyone say's anything I am only 62kg:p

Mrs hh:angel:

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Yeah i had thought of that but i got the second tank on the passengers side..I'm pretty sure its the dumb iron..

Don't get too dis-heartened Banjo - I think you are correct, the hanger needs moving downwards. A clever chap like you shouldn't find it a big deal to move it. Check out the chassis drawing and work out how to measure down from the top of the front crossmember, which is where the hanger eye should be measured from.

The measurement is 229mm and is on pg 76-13 of the SIII manual (I think you have a 109" which is what I am referring to),

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by banjo

Ah well looks like it will be sold off as is ..Cause that slab is the best i got as i dont go out & i wouldn't ask anyone to let me mark all the floor of there shed. Plus i realy don't want to have to pull all the body to bits to get the measurements .....:mad:

So any takers ...someone will be able to sort it out easier than what i can....:mad:
Check the markets & flee bay...:mad::(:(:( .

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Banjo, that slab of concrete doesn't look exactly true with all the cracks in it, you are quite welcome to use my garage if you want a level floor to work from, guessing your markings would be in chalk!!!;)

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Originally Posted by chazza

Don't get too dis-heartened Banjo - I think you are correct, the hanger needs moving downwards. A clever chap like you shouldn't find it a big deal to move it. Check out the chassis drawing and work out how to measure down from the top of the front crossmember, which is where the hanger eye should be measured from.

The measurement is 229mm and is on pg 76-13 of the SIII manual (I think you have a 109" which is what I am referring to),

Cheers Charlie

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Tanks Charlie i will have a look at that . . . . I have a few workshop manuals but i think i know which one your talking about . . . .

Jason, would a set of military extended shackles help??

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Originally Posted by dolphint

Jason, would a set of military extended shackles help??

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Extended shacles would probably do the trick but extended shackles at the rear of the spring and no lift at the front will change the castor angle, which is not only make problems for the steering but is almost certainly illegal (extended shackles plus moving the front spring eye on the dumb iron down is legal if done front and rear, since this was an option).

Using extended shackles to correct for an incorrect position of the front spring eye would not be very sensible.

John

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Originally Posted by banjo

Tanks Charlie i will have a look at that . . . . I have a few workshop manuals but i think i know which one your talking about . . . .

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G'day Banjo,
Sorry, I should have mentioned that my book is: Land Rover Series III; Repair Operation Manual; AKM3648 (edition 4)

I have had a think about your problem and it seems to me a good plan of attack is to:
1. Jack up front end and support on chassis stands.
2. Remove road wheel.
3. Remove front and rear suspension shackle pins whilst supporting axle on a trolley jack.
4. Disconnect drag link at the appropriate end.
5. Lower the axle and spring clear of the chassis - keep an eye on the brake hose; there should be enough flex in the RH spring to allow it to drop easily.
6. Make up a locating jig using two bolts welded at right angles and perfectly in line onto a rigid backing e.g. a piece of 30 x 30mm RHS tube. I used a bit of 25mm x 10mm flat bar on my S1. The bolts must be the same diameter as the shackle pins. The distance between the centres is 879.3mm if yours is a 109".
7. Remove the front hanger.
8. Clean the hanger of weld and smooth the chassis. Fit the hanger and pass the distance jig through both bushes.
9. Locate the height of the front hanger by measuring down from the top of the front crossmember - clamping a piece of RHS onto the crossmember and measuring with a steel rule and square should work well.
10. Tack the hanger in place and compare it to the other one.
11. If all looks well, weld in place and remove the distance jig.
12. Reassemble car and enjoy :D

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by dolphint

Jason, would a set of military extended shackles help??

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Thanks Steve i been out looking at the pile of crud again & i think doing that to the rear of the spring mite push the front of the spring closer to the steering rod..Unfortunately i think i'm going to have to fix the dumb iron up. The drivers side seems fine so its only the passengers side to do ...

Did i mention that just round the corner from my place is a series 3 stage one 5 door wagon for sale for $1500..