Thread: MEET Harry Highback

Well a small update as i have still been stripping & sanding body bits..

Painted the stage one rad surport still needs another coat or 2.

Been stripping & sanding the doors , Had to get all the old body deadner off the inside then started sanding..

The drivers side door had 3 bolts in it for some reason so had to fix them using more of this sikaflex stuff..

Will need to put some light weight bog on the outside later but other then that they are done . I havent sanded the frames as they will be brushed with black epoxy..

Then started on the gaurds today got the parkers & blinkers out , They had to be grindered off.Started to get the splits sorted that are on the front on the curve to the front from the top on the inside edge of the gaurds..

Thats about it realy i'll be back sanding tomorrow yay not..
Does anyone know if its possable to buy the front brackets that the stage one front end bolts to..I dont even know what they look like yet..
That mob in Melbourne may have them i thin k there called all four wheeel drives or something i'll have to check there parts catalouge tomoz its in the shed..

Took some reading but I caught up with you. Going well mate, keep it up.

are you going to paint the sound deadener on agian Jas or leave it off?

Originally Posted by DaCrabMan

are you going to paint the sound deadener on agian Jas or leave it off?

Na theres better stuff out there now..Scrapping the old stuff off was a nitemare..

Banjo,
Removing the paint by sanding is a pretty tedious business. Grit blasting of aluminium is out as it abrades and stretches the metal. But it is possible to soda-blast aluminium to remove the paint. It's just like grit blasting but uses sodium bicarbonate in crystal form. Doesn't damage the aluminium but removes the paint.
Here's one in Adelaide.
Adelaide Soda Blasting FAQs Page
Dunno if you have any up your way, and of course, it's more expensive than sandpaper...

Coop

Originally Posted by C00P

Banjo,
Removing the paint by sanding is a pretty tedious business. Grit blasting of aluminium is out as it abrades and stretches the metal. But it is possible to soda-blast aluminium to remove the paint. It's just like grit blasting but uses sodium bicarbonate in crystal form. Doesn't damage the aluminium but removes the paint.
Here's one in Adelaide.
Adelaide Soda Blasting FAQs Page
Dunno if you have any up your way, and of course, it's more expensive than sandpaper...

Coop

Thanks Coop.
I got a price on sandblasting ages ago & nearly fainted at the price was nearly $2000 just to do the body & that was primed when finished..
I ran out of paint stripper so i'll get somemore today as thats pretty quick to do & bugga all sanding..Just you have to scratch the surface of the paint when using it & that usualy means scratching the metal as well but i use a highfill etch primer so its not to hard to cover up & i sand first anyway so the primer sticks..

Keep up the great work Bango - your thread is an inspiration and has given me a few ideas already...! Keep it coming!

Regards,
The Grey Ghost

Well a bit of a slow week with Harry this week.Going through the should i just get rid of it & should i finish it..

So fixed the holes in the door with sikaflex but had to use lightweight to clean it all up..I didnt like the edges of the plate on the inside so fixed that to.It will look like a lump But wont have the edges..









I also broke my breaker bar as i said before so made a bit for it out of an old extension i had here so that will get us out of trouble for a bit as we use it for a wheel brace..









Then moved onto the gaurd with the new paint stripper Karen picked up for me .. Can't say i like it much although it does work but needs more coats, Not used to it not smelling so bag as this does'nt realy smell or burn the skin much..











THEN oh joy i moved onto the roof, When i got harry i thought it had a fiberglass roof as when i taped it it sounded like fiberglass..
WELL i learnt this week it is'nt fiberglass it was all BOG all the top of the roof is bog ranging in depth from 2 to 3 mm to about 6 mm deep at its most..
After 18 hours of scrapping it all off with a scrapper i NOW want to rename it to the BLOODY HAEMOROID cause its got so many LUMPS..
I wont be able to completely fix it but i think i can tap alot of them out & only use a light smear of bog over the whole top..
I'll find a good spot in all of it & try & get the rest to as close to that as posable, But its going to be slow as can only tap not whack it ..
also separated the roof off the gal channel so can all be cleaned up & resealed ..
I am going to use SIKAFLEX to seal it this time as with the green one i used window sealer as it does'nt set hard & i did'nt know about sikaflex back then..& if its a join i wont be able to break easy if need be its ok as i realy dont want to have to separate them again..























I'm hoping in the next couple of weeks to shoot some primer , But then has to sand that ..THEN some colour HOPEFULLY..
I also want to try & speak to a couple of engineers in the next couple of weeks to talk about DISC brakes using the set up in the disc brake thread of the toyota disc & disco rear calipers for the front .Then i want to see about some for the rear aswell..
Also i'm thinking of puting in AIR CON. I read a story in one of the english mags about a guy from elgland moving overseas somewhere & had air con fitted to his series 3 ..All the unit that was used was put all under his cubby box inbetween the front seats.means i'll lose a little in the depth of the cubby box but if i can sort some parts here that i can use then it will be worth it..