Thread: Steering problem

Hi TeZZaP

Sloppy relay repair is not my favorite job.
As age increases on the Land Rover, it's mate rust gets a firmer grip holding the relay inside the chassis.


When the relay is finally released. you will find that there is a spring inside the relay loading a pair of internally tapered bushes, these bushes support the tapers machined on the shaft and back on to the inside of the relay case.

Be warned! study a drawing of this before the spring knocks your block off, or else you loose your front teeth!

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by TeZZaP

Hi all, taken a little longer to get around to this, life and all that stuff...

I've finally got around to checking out all the components whilst someone repeatedly moved the steering wheel... I have noticed that there is movement at the bottom the steering relay; as in the actual relay moves a little, not the arm attachment, as if the relay is not snug in the chassis... But the top nuts are tight and the retaining ring is in place... Any ideas?

The ring on the bottom is supposed to be a snug fit on the relay. While you should be able to get a new one, it is likely that you will find the bottom cover of the relay is also worn. Obviously this could be replaced as well (and can be safely removed and replaced in situ - but do not attempt to disassemble the relay itself unless you know what you are doing - it has a powerful spring), but what I would do is to make a new retaining ring to fit the bottom plate of the relay. This would be a simple turning job from 6-8mm plate. If it has been moving here, make sure that one of the tabs welded to the chassis at the top has not broken loose.

John

Is it worth repairing or reconditioning a relay? I thought they were less than $100 new? Might be less hassle to replace it.

Originally Posted by pfillery

Is it worth repairing or reconditioning a relay? I thought they were less than $100 new? Might be less hassle to replace it.

Might be a lot more hassle if you can't get it out of the chassis!

To replace a relay just because it has a small amount of wear on the bottom plate is simply waste and a symptom of the throwaway society, and someone who is running a forty year old Landrover is hardly likely to be an enthusiastic supporter of this attitude. (Just throw the Landrover away - new ones are cheap!) And is likely to be a lot more work! Besides which, I haven't seen a relay for less than $100.

John

I don't think it's actually the relay itself - this is a new one, and I have a refurbished one which I tested when eliminating possible sources of steering issues - I think its either the 'relay lower flange plate', as the repair manual calls it, or the actual chassis is 'baggy'... not sure if I have the skills to cut a new flange plate accurately enough, so I might see if they are still available, or if I can track a decent second hand one down to replace it...

Edit to add: thanks for your input guys

Originally Posted by TeZZaP

I've got a problem with the front wheels scrubbing and jumping when on full lock at low speed (ie when parking)

Series IIIs don't have constant velocity joints in the swivel housings. At least my 1973 LWB didn't. It just had normal universal joints.

On full lock at low speed, the extreme angle of the parts of the standard universal joint causes variation in the speed of rotation of the wheel.

So a lurching effect is normal.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Might be a lot more hassle if you can't get it out of the chassis!

To replace a relay just because it has a small amount of wear on the bottom plate is simply waste and a symptom of the throwaway society, and someone who is running a forty year old Landrover is hardly likely to be an enthusiastic supporter of this attitude. (Just throw the Landrover away - new ones are cheap!) And is likely to be a lot more work! Besides which, I haven't seen a relay for less than $100.

John

I have seen them for around the $90 mark on ebay, none on there at the moment though. I guess it comes down to the time taken to properly recondition the old part, the cost of the rebuild kit and how well you can do the work yourself. It is cheaper to replace a clutch master cylinder at $45 or slave at $30 than it is to have one resleeved or rekitted assuming you take your labour time into account. Obviously being a landy owner I'm very much an advocate of doing as much as I can myself and repairing what can be repaired. Some parts can't be easilly rebuilt, others can be fixed with some fencing wire and gaffer tape.

Originally Posted by TeZZaP

I don't think it's actually the relay itself - this is a new one, and I have a refurbished one which I tested when eliminating possible sources of steering issues - I think its either the 'relay lower flange plate', as the repair manual calls it, or the actual chassis is 'baggy'... not sure if I have the skills to cut a new flange plate accurately enough, so I might see if they are still available, or if I can track a decent second hand one down to replace it...

Edit to add: thanks for your input guys

Try FWD in Brisbane for a new plate. I got one there a while ago so they may still have them.

TimJ.