Thread: Car died today

Hi Banjo

My Laptop was crying for attention and woke me up from my afternoons poppy nap !

I then read your distress about the wiring. My first thoughts are fuses are good as they have this uncanny ability to keep the smoke in the wires by their willingness to sacrifice their precious little lives in a flash.

I am in the process of sorting wiring in a late 2A and I can get back to this thread with some more information fo you, as that very mixed up Landy , also has a Holden motor fitted .

Attention Up to the top right hand side of this page you will find Files in which is a list of wiring diagrams, select the diagram for the motor that used to be originally fitted in your Landy and go from there.
.

Thank Authur

I got it going this morning the fuse had'nt blown was still in one peice But when i did a continuity test on it there was no beep from my autometer but there was then there was'nt then there was then there was'nt.
Anyway i did'nt have a spare so put the old one in & moved it about & it worked .Got the wife to work & home again.
Then she went shopping & on the way home it died again as soon as she turned into our street..
She had picked up a couple of spares on way home from work so she quickly put one in & hey presto it was all good again..

All the fuses in the fuse box are 10 amp are they all sposed to be that or are they differant sizes ????

Going to see if i can find those diagrams now ..
I have heaps of manuals with the wirring diagrams & im sure its right as its been on the road for 3 plus years & this is the first time its done it..will have to go over the wires again & make sure they are'nt rubbing on the body anywhere or where they go through the body..
Now if it would just stop raining so i can do this..

Thanks Jason..

Well just went & crawled from the back to the front under the car tracing the wires & theres no contact anywhere or rub marks or exposed wires anywhere..OH joy in the cutter full of water & dirt GGGGGRRRRRRRRR..

So maybe it was just a dodgy fuse ?
I'd like to know the correct sizes the fuses need to be now..

If you are talking about the little glass fuses these can go intermittent from "old age" (or whatever- maybe it's vibration) and cause just these sorts of symptoms. Willing to bet that you don't have any further problems now that you have fitted a new fuse. The break can occur where the little shiny cap on the end contacts the fusible bit on the inside. You can't see the break because it's inside the little cap. And if you move the fuse about, it sometimes remakes contact- just enough to pass sufficient current- for a while. But because the contact is tenuous at best, it begins to get a bit hot due to the small surface area conducting the current, and can melt a wee bit and break the contact again. Or else the vibration gets to it and breaks the contact.
If you grab the ends of the fuse by the little caps and gently tug, the fuse shouldn't come apart. If it does, it was the source of the problem.

Coop

it can also be the corrosion in the fuse holders, a bit of emery paper helps out.

Hi Jason

What was the original motor and year of build of Your Landy? I can then answer your question about what size fuse is required.

Those glass fuses can look perfect and intact, but the fuse wire can let go where they are spot welded inside their end cap and not be seen. Use the continuity tester setting on your multimeter to check this, but continuity must be checked with the fuse out of its holder.

The inside of the clips of the holders can have their contact surface improved by giving them a bit of a rub, to do this, use a cotton bud and a drop or two of Brasso. If corrosion does look to be the problem, use a little Vaseline grease, smear this around the clips of the fuse holder after it has been cleaned as this will help to keep the moisture away.
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Originally Posted by C00P

If you are talking about the little glass fuses these can go intermittent from "old age" (or whatever- maybe it's vibration) and cause just these sorts of symptoms. Willing to bet that you don't have any further problems now that you have fitted a new fuse. The break can occur where the little shiny cap on the end contacts the fusible bit on the inside. You can't see the break because it's inside the little cap. And if you move the fuse about, it sometimes remakes contact- just enough to pass sufficient current- for a while. But because the contact is tenuous at best, it begins to get a bit hot due to the small surface area conducting the current, and can melt a wee bit and break the contact again. Or else the vibration gets to it and breaks the contact.
If you grab the ends of the fuse by the little caps and gently tug, the fuse shouldn't come apart. If it does, it was the source of the problem.

Coop

Yep thats them the glass type.Hoping the new one fixed it, Find out tomorrow when wife uses it for work..
Thanks..

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

it can also be the corrosion in the fuse holders, a bit of emery paper helps out.

I think ya right Dave i'll give them all a good clean tomorrow aswell.