TopicToaster
Hello All,
Well I suppose I should introduce my latest acquisition - the totally unexpected diesel currently known as "X". It is all eBay's fault that this vehicle came along. It was pretty local to me with it being offered for sale in Maryborough and I live in Bundaberg. It was a diesel which I have been after for a while and it was going for a very reasonable price. No it is not the one that I have I asked about the retractable seat belts - no this one is a totally different one - you know un... expect..ed.
Yesterday I learnt about pretty anodised alloy valve caps that after lack of regular use actually seize on to the valve stem. Two spares later and a future visit to the tyre repair place to get two new tubes I learnt about not using pretty anodised alloy valve caps. Well not without anti-seize compound anyway.
Today I took the diving board off the back of the diesel including the extended towbar frame. This was the one point of entry to the pop-top camper and it was built to stand the test of time. Bolts located here, there and everywhere accompanied by plenty of rust and dirt. Rattle guns are good things. Then after all the bolts were taken off the diving board was still not going to shift. A tractor with a big chain does come in handy for persuading things to come off.
Once the diving board was off I went to separate the frame from the extended tow bar tongue. Just to make sure bolts did not come loose on the tow bar tongue the nuts were welded on. Some grinding later and helped by the rattle gun I had succeeded in getting the tow bar free.
In the process of removing the diving board it also involved separating a rat’s nest of wires that had gone up into the camper. Somewhere amongst the nest a wire must have been interfering with the circuitry because with the rat’s nest disconnected I now have a horn and head and tail lights that actually work. The next task is to sort out the indicator issue and remove about a Kilometre of excess wire. Also sort out why the second fuel gauge does not work.
The original owner also reversed into something and the driver’s side rear outrigger was banana shaped. My tractor makes a good anchor so I used a couple of chains and a 4 ton come-along winch and a large block of wood to chock the diesel’s tyre. Now I have a straight outrigger again. I will get the creases warmed up a bit and hammered out flat. I figured that I should quit while I was ahead and called it an end to my first weekend of working on diesel “X”. The best part is that I turned the key, the diesel started and I could park it all under its own power – unlike my other Land Rovers. No “X” is not Roman Numerals for ten Land Rovers. I might be bitten by the Land Rover Series III bug but I am not that bad.
More progress next weekend – stay tuned.
The fate of the camper - well it will not be going on the back of the diesel again. Instead I am thinking about converting it so it fits on to a tandem trailer and can slide on and off plus be able to support itself on stands. This way the trailer can still be used to do normal trailer stuff.
I will be reconnecting the old oil bath air cleaner until the diesel passes rego and then look at fitting the Donaldson air cleaner cylinder on a roof rack bar and not use storm water pipe - I am picky I know!
Well Bye for now
Lionel
TopicToaster
Hello Fellow Series III owners,
Just wondering about the inter-changeability of oil bath air cleaner units between Series 3 diesel and earlier Series vehicles? Also what sort of maintenance is required on the cleaner and how often time and distance wise?
Kind Regards
Lionel
TopicToaster
Hello All,
Okay I went to fit the air cleaner unit which I had bought from a vehicle that was being wrecked last year and I went to put it into the holder of my 1976 diesel. As shown by the photo something just does not quite fit!
Any ideas whether there is a difference between the size - particularly the height between the Series III 2.25 diesel and other maybe petrol or different Series vehicles?
Now if this was the correct fitting oil bath air cleaner am I missing any parts from what you can see in the photos?
What sort of maintenance do these units require? I am used to tractor and other earth moving equipment air filters and I thought there might be a paper air filter inside the canister - apparently not ... hey!
Bloody Murphy ... I went out to the Land Rover after work so I could get something simple and quick done on it before it is dark - did not hear someone go "gotcha" when I was walking towards the diesel either
Kind Regards
Lionel
Master
Lionel,
a few things to check.
- make sure all of the parts are stacked together and firmly fitted. My old series had similar problems if they were not assembled correctly.
- you need to fill the lower bowl of the filter with oil. Not sure if you knew that. I used to use a detergent diesel oil eg rimula and change at least as often as the engine oil. Dirt drops into the oil in the bottom of the bowl. Not a bad system but donaldsons etc have generally improved filtration. Wash out with two stroke or similar AND MAKE SURE IT IS FULLY DRY.
Cheers.
TopicToaster
G'day All,
Mate my guess is that the air cleaner is for a 6cyl 2.6lt engine, the give away for me is the height of the top, 4cyl version is smaller, check it against your S3 military Land Rover, cheers Dennis
TopicToaster
G'day Dennis,Originally Posted by Dinty
G'day All,
Mate my guess is that the air cleaner is for a 6cyl 2.6lt engine, the give away for me is the height of the top, 4cyl version is smaller, check it against your S3 military Land Rover, cheers Dennis
There lies the problem my S3 FFR Morse came without a fair few things; one of which was the air cleaner. The air cleaner in the photo is my one and only so I had nothing to compare it to. I figured it might be the right type for the wrong vehicle. Well now I don't have to get an air cleaner for Morse. Thanks for the tip Dennis.
Kind Regards
Lionel
RoverLord
Do not fill the bottom section with oil - fill it up to the step about an inch above the bottom. The oil to use is non critical (but should be clean) - use the same oil you put in the engine. As mentioned the six and four have different filters. The four cylinder filter, petrol or diesel, is the same from Series 2 to Series 3, and is the same as Series 1 diesel. As mentioned, the six is different.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
TopicToaster
Hello All,
Has anyone any experience with diesel dual tanks? After not being able to find the second filling point or any taps to change in between tanks I found both today. Oh after the ute now named "Baldrick" stopped running. Apparently the fuel gauge is not accurate - go figure! After a while I found a lever which I reckon could be the tap to switch between tanks. There is also an On/Off toggle switch near the lever where up is "On" written in Red and Down is "Off" written in Black. So when the toggle switch is on and as soon as the ignition switch is turned to the "Charge" red light on the dash panel there are pump type sounds coming from behind the toggle switch. Now I am presuming this is a fuel pump that brings fuel circulating into the system - how long should I have this pump going for? As soon as the key is turned to the glow plug warming position or the ignition position the fuel pump sound stops.
How long should I have the pump working before shifting the ignition switch to warm the glow plugs or start the engine?
Oh and Baldrick has been fitted with bucket seats and I thought the passenger side one is particularly loose. Today I wound the back of the seat forward as far as it can go. I found that the rear of the bucket seat is hinged. With the seat wound forward I could lift the seat up and there I found a rubber mat on top of the removable seat box cover. I undid the latch and removed the seat box cover and there was the second filling point - with bugger all clearance to fill because the bucket seat back does not come very far forward so the whole seat cannot be tipped back very far to get more clearance for filling.
Also with the lever - when the black main part of the lever is towards the driver's side could this mean it is drawing fuel from the driver's side tank and when the black handle part is turned around so it is facing the passenger side could this mean it is drawing fuel from the passenger side tank - or have I got this around the wrong way???
Could a moderator please change the title of this thread from Diesel X to …
“A Diesel called Baldrick”.
Yes Baldrick as in Black Adder's faithful grubby servant. "I have a cunning plan My Lord". Yes that Baldrick.
Kind Regards
Lionel
TopicToaster
Hello All,
I spent the best part of today working on Baldrick's electrical system. The former owner twice removed was an electrical engineer so there is every wire under the sun looping around Baldrick. All the wire was hooked up as part of the camper which went on Baldrick and the camper had at least three different ratings of voltage wire from 240 v down to 12 volt and some other types. The electrical system also featured lots of piggyback junctions for wire here there and everywhere and a nice collection of terminal blocks. So considering the maze of wiring I succeeded in sorting out the blinkers for each corner; brake lights; tail lights and headlights, plus the horn and the windscreen wipers work
Just need to sort out why the two fuel gauges and the temperature gauge don’t work and the interior light in the cab. The windscreen washer does not work - but the bottle was broken years ago by its appearance and it needs to be replaced anyway. I have to change the five pin trailer plug to a 7 pin so it fits my trailer.
So a good day was had.
Kind Regards
Lionel
TopicToaster
Hello Fellow Series 3 Owners,
I turned on Baldrick's headlights and I was instantly underwhelmed – oh what nice dull yellow lights! They are probably the same sealed beam lights Baldrick had when he rolled stately off the assembly line back in 1976. Back in that year it was probably at the cutting edge of headlight technology.
I will be putting in a New Era relay for the head light circuit; and separate one for a driving light circuit; plus installing thicker wires.
Just wondering if anyone has upgraded their headlights to a more updated system? For example something like Xenon Headlights Crystal Semi-Sealed Universal Clear Round H4 12V 55/60W?
Kind Regards
Lionel
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