Thread: S3 Lack of grunt

Hey Paul,

When was the last time you looked at the ignition timing side of things? If I were you, I would replace the points/condensor with the right gap, check my tappet clearances and set the engine timing before resorting to anything drastic. I you want to be thorough, do the plugs, leads, rotor button and cap while you are at it. a well synced 2.25 is worlds apart from a neglected one.

Sam

Originally Posted by series3

Hey Paul,

When was the last time you looked at the ignition timing side of things? If I were you, I would replace the points/condensor with the right gap, check my tappet clearances and set the engine timing before resorting to anything drastic. I you want to be thorough, do the plugs, leads, rotor button and cap while you are at it. a well synced 2.25 is worlds apart from a neglected one.

Sam

Thanks Sam

I have to say I haven't done any of that as when I bought the vehicle it was used reguarly to pick children up from school and had been apparantly serviced by a LR mechanic or so I was told.

I probably should run through your suggestions first.

Regards
Paul

For the use you describe, the Rover engine will be superior to the Holden engine. And fixing it will probably be cheaper than fitting a Holden engine, even if you already have the engine.

The problem with hesitation pulling away is a tuning problem of some kind. It may be the carburetter, despite the fitting of a kit - in particular, if it has a a blocked or partly blocked low speed jet, it will have this effect. Indeed, incorrect idling mixture adjustment will as well. You do not say which carburetter it is - probably should be Zenith. This has a potential problem with a warped top cover. The solution is to disassemble and grind flat using a flat surface plus wet and dry. Less easy to fix is wear on the throttle shaft. And if it is a non-standard carburetter, such as a Stromberg, this may well be the problem.

The most likely ignition problem, apart from those mentioned, is deteriorated high tension leads. Replace these unless they are nearly new, and even then might be worth doing - they are not expensive.

A compression check would show whether there is a major wear problem with the engine.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

For the use you describe, the Rover engine will be superior to the Holden engine. And fixing it will probably be cheaper than fitting a Holden engine, even if you already have the engine.

The problem with hesitation pulling away is a tuning problem of some kind. It may be the carburetter, despite the fitting of a kit - in particular, if it has a a blocked or partly blocked low speed jet, it will have this effect. Indeed, incorrect idling mixture adjustment will as well. You do not say which carburetter it is - probably should be Zenith. This has a potential problem with a warped top cover. The solution is to disassemble and grind flat using a flat surface plus wet and dry. Less easy to fix is wear on the throttle shaft. And if it is a non-standard carburetter, such as a Stromberg, this may well be the problem.

The most likely ignition problem, apart from those mentioned, is deteriorated high tension leads. Replace these unless they are nearly new, and even then might be worth doing - they are not expensive.

A compression check would show whether there is a major wear problem with the engine.

John

John

The carby is the original zenith. Thanks for all your suggestions. Certainly if I can get the vehicle to perform with the original engine that would be preferable to an engine swap. I suppose it could be a days work instead of a weekend plus time to refine and trouble shoot. Also removing the engine from the Dyna is a real bu**er of a job, because with a twin cab the engine has to be dropped out the bottom.

To be able to clear the underside the whole vehicle has to be about 400mm up in the air, which would be on a hoist in a mechanics workshop, but has to be improvised in my case.

If I can get the Landy to work satisfactorily my demands on it will not be great and it is probably what it is best at (as opposed to highway use.)

Regards
Paul

Dont stuff a good Land Rover with a Holden engine
Go over the 4 Cylinder engine and get it running properly it will serve you well.
Its over 30 years old so it will need a little bit of TLC

Here's a good link in reference to staying on top of the 2.25

2.25 Petrol Servicing - A Dummies Guide...

Sam

In addition to the other chaps' suggestions re carburettor and ignition; check the vacuum advance by sucking on the hose, whilst the distributor cap is removed, if it is working you will see the base plate move a bit.

No vacuum advance will give the symptoms you describe,

Cheers Charlie

The ignition system does make a huge difference, on my IIA I thought it was a bit weak but when I replaced the plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor button (and coil) it really picked up. also the mixture on the carby can be a problem as well as timing. And by the way that is a nice looking Series III you've got there she looks fairly straight and the paint looks pretty good. I would have to agree with keeping the 4cyl the seem to have good torque low down but they are a bit low on power compared to the Holden motor.