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Thread: A freshen up for Willy

  1. #21
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    Andy try these steps.
    1. Set no.1 piston at TDC. There are two easy ways to this: a) take off the rocker cover and rotate the engine with the starting handle, until the timing mark lines up with the pointer and both rocker arms on no. 1 cylinder are loose on their valves; or b) remove the spark plug and with the aid of a helper feel for the little poof of escaping gas, as you place your thumb, reasonably firmly, over the spark plug hole. If there is some doubt as to the size of the little poof, get your helper to rotate the engine another 180 degrees and see if it is bigger or smaller on the next upward stroke of the piston. The bigger of the two is the compression stroke, which is the one you want. Set the timing mark to TDC. Whilst doing the above, note which way the distributor rotates.
    2. Read the manual on how to insert the distributor, paying attention to where on the clock-face the rotor arm should point to. Remove it and reinsert into the place the book recommends.
    3. Loosely clamp the distributor in place so that it is firm but able to be rotated by hand when the engine is running.
    4. Make sure that the spark plug leads are installed in the cap in the correct firing-order. The order is probably cast on the exhaust manifold. The lead closest to the end of the rotor arm is no. 1. Remembering which way the rotor arm travels, install the next lead in the firing order and so on.
    5. Connect the low tension leads and try starting the engine; if it starts, it will then need timing with a timing light,

    Cheers Charlie

  2. #22
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    Cheers Charlie... Thats pretty well what I was doing, I followed your steps again and still had no luck! I gave Gav a call (thanks for the help mate) and set it all up AGAIN I swear it was all ok! I gave in and asked my neighbour for a hand to crank the engine so i could check for spark again... turns out he used to race motorbikes and was pretty clued onto it all!! none of the valves were seating completely because I didn't do the valve clearance after the Cylinder head had it's haircut... set up the distributor yet again and got three cranks before the battery karked it. But he did fire and almost kicked into life! I had no idea there was such an adjustment.... I'll charge the battery tonight and hopefully I can get him tuned and sent away for a new exhaust system tommorow! Thanks for the advice everyone!
    Cheers, Andy

  3. #23
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    Ah; good news then!

    I was going to mention valve clearances but for some reason didn't.

    Four good rules for tuning an engine, in the following order, are;
    1. Test compression - if OK proceed to 2.
    2. Check/adjust the valve clearances.
    3. Check/adjust the ignition system including new parts.
    4. Adjust/service the fuel system.

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #24
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    fantastic! got Willy running sort of ok... Hard to tell with no exhaust the section of pipe I cut when I pulled the head off seems to be missing so he's a little loud at the moment! My attention now is on the exhaust system. My intention was to put a 2 inch system through, Midas in Briar Hill said it'd be $400-500 for a 2 inch exhaust with muffler.. or upwards of $500 -600 if I wanted it made with mandrel bends..

    I have been thinking about making up my own using mandrel bends... as a quick price guide I've worked out that on ebay I could get:

    2 inch Muffler for $80
    180 degree mandrel bends for $20 each
    weld on steel flange for $13 each
    have not priced steel pipe yet
    plus I'd need new hangers

    It looks as though I could make my own mandrel bent system for under $300
    once I get the pipe work to the gearbox I should be able to run it down to the rear of car through the PTO holes that are on the chassis I don't think it would be too difficult.. am I making it sound easier than it is? I'm a plumber, it seems to me that I'd just be welding steel instead of gluing UPVC pipe...
    I'll price up a length of pipe and maybe get some other quotes. Anyone got any thoughts on this?

    Cheers Andy

  5. #25
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    If you have a MIG, a grinder some patience and some skill. Then yes, you can do it yourself. Your trade puts you in good stead for this.

    I put my exhaust back together the other day with my arc welder, which is a bit of a pain and I wouldn't recommend doing a whole system with one...

    Cheers - Gav.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #26
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    I made a complete system for my P6 once for $300 including two stainless mufflers; every bend was done with any oxy torch. The quoted new price was $1100!

    To bend exhaust tube with an oxy:
    1. Grip the end of the tube with a vice, supporting the inside of the pipe with a socket, or a piece of timber to prevent it crushing.
    2. Bend a piece of 1/8" welding wire to the correct shape - it helps immensely to have a hoist or a ramp!
    3. Lie the wire on the tube and mark where the first bend is to commence.
    4. Heat a strip on the outside of the bend about 10mm wide but no wider, until it glows dull red; the strip must run across the pipe and be diametrically opposite at its ends.
    5. Apply pressure to the unclamped end of the pipe and start the bend. Be careful not to bend it too far or the metal will thin too much.
    6. Repeat the heating process about 30mm away from the first bend. Keep checking with the wire. The gaps between the bends can be done later when the metal has cooled a bit.
    7. The pipe will become an oval where it is bent so every-now-and-then unclamp it and squeeze the bend in the vice to push the metal back to a circular shape.

    The most important thing is not to make the red-hot bit wider than 10mm.

    ADVANTAGES;
    * Smooth bends with no constrictions.
    * Good for jobs where no pattern exists.
    * Cheap
    * Great for custom work.

    DISADVANTAGES
    * Slow to make.
    * May need specialist equipment such as oxy set; tube expander for joins etc.

    Cheers Charlie

  7. #27
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    Thanks Charlie I'll give the a go sometime! I have oxy, mig and even arc at home plus all the flaring and expanding tools at work but I had a rude reminder of SWMBO in laws invasion (moving her stuff into *our* house)... I'd love to do it myself but I think I'll just get it done for me so it's done and I can escape of a weekend! every weekend! looks like willy will be finished in the next couple of weeks so keep your eye on the upcoming trips section, I'll have more than a few trips organised from march and aprill.. Hopefully no longer!

    cheers, Andy

  8. #28
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    I've finally got willy back exhaust is all sorted! Took him to Midus in the end, the only real reasons being that it was close and I knew the job would be done in time for the invasion... Got a 2inch system right through with a new muffler, cost $760!! thought that was abit of a sting as the 2 inch exhaust I had made up for my old green series 2 was $350. I guess that was 7 years ago and it was a swb. But! still worth it I reckon!

    I'm still trying to tune him up, but he starts within a few cranks now with only the choke on (no more pumping of the go pedal) there is a bit of a flat spot but I put the new china zenith on that I bought for him a while ago, I had that on when i bought it but it had an awful flat spot so I pulled off again. I was hoping after seeing the condition of the head that it was the valves and air sucking in from the inlet manifold causing the problem but i think now its just that crap carby.

    all up it took about 6 weeks and cost me around... $1300? for that He now has:

    Reconditioned head (with abit of a trim)
    Electronic igition kit with electronic distributor,leads, coil, triple ground plugs
    2 inch exhaust
    new indicators, parkers and brake lights
    proper hoses and piping for the donaldson airbox

    hopefully in the next few weeks i'll sort out that flat spot and be finished with my plumbing exams leaving me free to get away when I want to. And with luck the poo troll and toy yoda drivers won't poke fun anymore asking willy over heat or willy make it home!

    Cheers, Andy

  9. #29
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    Is the vacuum advance working? Just thinking about the flat-spot,

    Cheers Charlie

  10. #30
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    G'day charlie! yep I've tested the vacuum advance (by removing the hose from carby and sucking to see if roter button moves). I had another look today, pulled the spark plugs out they were as black as all get out so he's too rich and was backfiring from carby which is too..... advanced? I think I just need to start again from scratch and make sure I'm doing it all right.

    I'm going to buy myself a new timing light that will show me the RPM.. I think if i can get the idle speed right I can get the right timing, then with the correct timing I'll have half a chance of getting the mixture right! I'm very close..

    Cheers, Andy

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