I had clogged bleed screws on mine.
Had me stumped for quite a while.
I'd usually start bleeding from the longest pipe, left rear?.
If you pull the bleed screw all the way out, with the filler cap removed, the fluid should slowly seep out .
Hi all,
Just doing some repairs and what not, and changed over the brake adjusters on the fronts of my series 3 long wheel base.
no dramas with the change over, but come to bleeding, the fronts are ok, but no fluid comes out the back
Any suggestions as to what i need to be doing???
I followed the instructions in the repair operation manual, and nothing...
Please help.
Cheers
Joel.
I had clogged bleed screws on mine.
Had me stumped for quite a while.
I'd usually start bleeding from the longest pipe, left rear?.
If you pull the bleed screw all the way out, with the filler cap removed, the fluid should slowly seep out .
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Do you have single or dual circuit brakes? Have you got pressure at the inlet to the wheel cylinder?
If you have the bleed nipples with the small ball bearing in them I have found sometimes it takes quite a bit of pressure to loosen the ball if they have been overtigtened
Ok, not sure about those things, but just jacked up the back, spun the wheels, and put on the brakes, and they just keep spinning
Looks like i'll be needing to take off brake lines and put some air through them and see whats going on.. Must some kind of blockage...
Correct me if im wrong, if the rear slave cylinders where stuffed, oil would still come out of the bleed nipple yeah??
OH, and i tried it with the nipple's taken completely out... and there was still nothing...
Thoughts?
Oh, i just had a look, there is one line coming from the master cylinder to a 4 way junction type diverter.
So, one line coming in, then 2 lines going to the fronts (one either side) then only one line going to the rear brakes.
Do i undo from the junction and test? Then put back and then undo at the flex hose near the rear axle and test, then put back and then undo side at a time at the slave cylinder, checking each time if fluid comes out????
Cheers![]()
The wheel cylinders could be full of crap. Starting at the junction would make sense as you know that the lines are clear to there if the front brakes work.
Start at the rear left.
Would be good if you could get someone to pump the pedal up and hold it while you undo the brake line to the wheel cylinder. Fluid should come out.
If not you may have a squashed line back towards the 4 way splitter.
Where in Brisbane are you ?
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
No squashed line. Checked for that.
No fluid coming out
I'm on bribie island.
Is the pedal hard, feels normal?
If it's soft then keep pumping.
Hard would point to a blockage.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
yeah peddle hard,
Blockage is what i thought...
Scary to think, that for the last 12 months i've had it, it's most likely been this way the whole time
Luckily the fronts is what really pulls us up......
Consider the possibility that a previous owner has dealt with a leaking wheel cylinder by blocking off the line, probably at one end of the flexible hose. A brake rivet inserted in the joint is the usual method!
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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