Thread: The Wobbles

It could be worn tie-rod ends,that is a easy check,have somebody turn the steering wheel with viger while you lay under the vehicle with a hand on each tie rod end,and you will feel the play(no play not worn) replace the worn ones,also it could be the swivel pins worn or needing the preload re-set,this is done by removing some shims from the upper swivel pin on each side,this wear can be checked by grabbing the wheel at the 12 O'clock position and push/pulling it,if there is movement then check wheel bearings for correct adjustment and if correct,then the play is worn swivel pins.(there is a set pre-load tension for these swivels) --refer manual.

If you get the relevent workshop manual (I prefer "Haynes" manuals) for your model it will give you a step by step instructions,saves you $$$$ and it is not a special tool jobbie.


cheers

Ok thanks that gives me something to work with

Often with a vehicle that age, the answer is:
(D) All of the above.

A little bit of wear in most of the steering components eventually adds up to enough to cause a problem. So just because you find a bit of slack in one component, don't ignore the possibility that the other things need checking too.

So check all the things UnclHo mentioned.

Originally Posted by Polizei

Hi folks

I am restoring a 109 gs

When I last drove the vehicle the steering had a tendency to get the wobbles when several minor bumps were driven over. It was really quite alarming.

Could this be a symptom that my tie rods all need replacing or is this a sign of something else?

TIA

To be honest that's just how 109's steer, All it takes is that bit of wear in everything and it all adds up to a vehicle that wanders like a beagle in a butcher shop as has been said, probably start simple like tie rods and work your way through to the steering box eventually just so if the steering improves you haven't gone and bought all the expensive parts first. The cruise ship like turning circle can't be helped.

Originally Posted by Series3 GT

To be honest that's just how 109's steer, All it takes is that bit of wear in everything and it all adds up to a vehicle that wanders like a beagle in a butcher shop as has been said, probably start simple like tie rods and work your way through to the steering box eventually just so if the steering improves you haven't gone and bought all the expensive parts first. The cruise ship like turning circle can't be helped.

Rubbish, that shouldn't be how it is. My 88 doesn't wander like a beagle, I get more wander from my 110 if suspension bush is tired than from the 88. A 109 should have more directional stability than an 88 too. There shouldn't be any odd wobbling, before anyone suggests it mine doesn't have a steering damper on it so that can't be blamed either.
Follow the advice given earlier! Crawl under it while someone rocks the steering, then whilst someone rocks the whole vehicle both side to side and front to back, it could be something like a worn swivel pin/Railko bush too. Lots of places to look at.

I agree with Mark. While not quite as sharp handling as a 110, a 109 should be not far off it. Apart from actual steering parts, wandering is contributed to by spring bushes, loose U-bolts, broken spring leaves etc, or even damaged (rusty) chassis bits. Also, problems will result from the use of military shackles on the front without moving the front spring location.

John

Thanks guys for all the great tips.

Does anyone have a recommended work shop manual?

I have looked online but from what i can see many of the manuals don't cover the 6 cyl vehicles. (i have a 2.6)

I downloaded the land rover workshop manuals available online, but am looking for something that is a little easier to follow for the amateur mechanic such as myself.

Cheers

Hi Polizei,

For what you are looking at in the suspension there is no difference between a six and a four. The standard workshop manual covers the six in all areas as far as I know. Have a look at "Dave's interesting things" in the links above. Dave can send you a disc with all sorts of interesting stuff on it. A combination of the workshop manual and the parts manual pictures are usually enough to get you out of trouble. Haynes do a manual but it isn't really better, just sometimes has a different picture or approach that helps.

Cheers,

TimJ.