Thread: Alternator issues

Our Auto electrician supplied a 90 amp unit that was a direct replacement for Lucas alternators. It makes a bit of a rumble which we thought was bearing noise but turned out to just be a characteristic of the unit- the bearings are fine. Can't tell you what the name of it is- we are presently in Darwin and the Landy is in Adelaide....
Cheers

Coop

The click when trying to start sounds like the starter solenoid. Can't see how this would be related to the alternator.
Try rocking the car in 3rd gear back and forward to ensure the starter isn't engaged. Then try starting in neutral again. If you still have the click I'd try bridging the battery to starter and see if it turns over.

Yes I thought it may have been the starter solenoid also. I only replaced this 12 months ago so hopefully haven't cooked it somehow

I will try your suggestions.

Ok so I swapped out my replacement alternator and put the original back in which is starting now without issue, although not charging again. Maybe I had a bad earth somewhere...

Anyway in the meantime I contacted repco we suggested that the alternator the supply OEX LXA120 would be a bolt in replacement although higher output. This was $257.

I did an internet search for this alternator and was able to cross reference it with a number of other alternators from other manufacturers.

These look like they will all fit.

LUCAS NAB900, ASHDOWN 03-33900, BOSCH BX690170, INGRAM LNAB900, JAYLEC 65-5105, AEA ALT7900, OEX LXA120 

Some of these look to be cheaper than the oex one I can get from repco so I might just upgrade my charge wire and do this.

I did notice one site I came across suggested that this was an upgrade for Lucas ACR type alternators. What is the difference between a Lucas AC and ACR? Is it the voltage regulator and will this affect my wiring?

TIA

What area are you in? I used to have bucket loads of those awful old alternators as they were standard on the 6 cyl P76's but they're all gone now. Personally I'd take your alternator to the neareast auto electrician and get him to find one that is a good physical match. Some washer packing and adjuster extending may be required, possibly a slightly longer fan belt too. A 55 amp Bosch alternator off an early 2.6 Magna may be a suitable item.

I would be trying to find out why bolting a diferent alternator in stopped your engine from turning over, then i would put the spare you have in first before buying another alternator

Originally Posted by bee utey

What area are you in? I used to have bucket loads of those awful old alternators as they were standard on the 6 cyl P76's but they're all gone now. Personally I'd take your alternator to the neareast auto electrician and get him to find one that is a good physical match. Some washer packing and adjuster extending may be required, possibly a slightly longer fan belt too. A 55 amp Bosch alternator off an early 2.6 Magna may be a suitable item.

Thanks I think taking my alternator somewhere to get a physical match is a good idea. I am in Fullarton area.

Before I do this I will give the other spare alternator I have another go. Perhaps it was just a poor connection, as I cleaned all the connections since then. I know when I spin this one I can feel the magnetic resistance. The original faulty one however spins without any resistance.

Originally Posted by Polizei

Thanks I think taking my alternator somewhere to get a physical match is a good idea. I am in Fullarton area.

Before I do this I will give the other spare alternator I have another go. Perhaps it was just a poor connection, as I cleaned all the connections since then. I know when I spin this one I can feel the magnetic resistance. The original faulty one however spins without any resistance.

There are no magnetised components in a disconnected alternator. They should spin with very little resistance. What you're feeling is probably tight bearings or a bent shaft.

Providing the 3 body screws aren't rusted in, those alternators are dead easy to open up. But looking at your pics the chances are the screws will snap off. If the screws undo, carefully lever the rear housing plus the iron/copper stator section off the front section.

All you need to replace/swap a regulator is a soldering iron and a pop rivet or thin nail. When you reinstall the regulator there's a small hole opposite the brushes. Manually push in the brushes and insert the pop rivet stem in the hole to keep the brushes retracted. After putting the rear end back on remove the rivet and the brushes spring back onto the rotor. It's also possible the brushes are stuck or badly worn, sometimes bending the brush solder points a bit will let the brushes reengage the rotor.

As for auto electricians, I don't know the ones down your way. The one at Bridgewater is very good.