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Thread: Why are my front brakes nearly on fire?

  1. #1
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    Why are my front brakes nearly on fire?

    Everything is new, adjusters are wound right back, shoes are aligned. But after a short drive the front wheels are so hot I can't even touch them. The brake pedal is rock hard. The vehicle will roll slightly on a hill but the brakes are obviously grabbing all the time. What else do I look at? Booster? Master cylinder?

    Thanks
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  2. #2
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    It sounds as if the master cylinder needs adjusting - there must be some free-play in the pedal, so that the reservoir can recuperate the fluid which was pushed into the pipes, the last time the brakes were activated,

    Cheers Charlie

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    Everything is new, adjusters are wound right back, shoes are aligned. But after a short drive the front wheels are so hot I can't even touch them. The brake pedal is rock hard. The vehicle will roll slightly on a hill but the brakes are obviously grabbing all the time. What else do I look at? Booster? Master cylinder?

    Thanks
    Sounds like you have a bit of fluid retention haha but more seriously have you bled the brakes? Are the calipers new? If not what sort of condition are they in? If ok work your way back towards the master cyl, process of elimination. Always go for the area that had work done first before looking further afield.
    Just a thought.

  4. #4
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    Had the same issue.
    You need to back off the adjuster nuts on the master cylinder push rod until you have about 10mm free play on the pedal.
    Also make sure the springs are good (preferably new) and are installed correctly.
    The top spring goes from the shoe to the adjuster not to the other shoe.
    Wind the adjusters right in (against the stop) and try again. If you have to pump the pedal once to get pedal then adjust them up a couple of clicks.
    They should be adjusted so that the shoes just catch when you spin the wheel.
    If none of this works change the rubber brakes hoses and try again.
    They sometimes deteriorate inside and act like a non return valve. You cant see the problem from the outside.

    Good luck.

    Phil.

  5. #5
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    Phil was right...

    My brake pedal has been rock hard. I carefully removed the master cylinder to expose the threaded shaft. I wound this back a little and went for a test drive.......no more hot wheels!...but I must have wound it back a bit too far as I now have too much pedal travel. While fix this in the morning.

    Cheers!
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  6. #6
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    Andrew,

    Try leaving the MC adjustment where it is and pull the shoes closer to the drums with the adjusters. You will need to re-adjust all four wheels.They should just touch. That will bring the pedal up.

    Good luck,

    Phil.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    Phil was right...


    Cheers!
    So was Chazza!

  8. #8
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    Sorry Chazza!!!

    Phil B - I have brand new shoes all and getting the drum on and off is a mission as there are pretty tight - this was my first concern as I thought it was just the new shoes being run it.

    Cheers
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  9. #9
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    Sound like the shoes aren't retracting properly otherwise the drums should come off easily.
    Try opening (and immediately closing) one of the bleed nipples without pushing the brake pedal.
    If fluid squirts out (fluid pressure is not returning to the MC) slacken the MC adjuster a little more. If the problem persists after backing off the mc open a bleed nipple to relieve the pressure, remove the drum and check the spring positions and change the hoses. you will have to re bleed the brakes after doing this.

    Welcome to the joys of S3 brakes!

    Phil.

  10. #10
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    Are your brake drums standard size or have they been machined out? I had a similar issue with new drums and new shoes on my vehicle. In the end I had to buff the high spots off the shoes. My rear drums had been machined and were a 1/32nd oversize, so it wasn't an issue.
    Good luck, I know how frustrating it is.


    Cheers, Mick
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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