Thread: STEERING ISSUES ON SERIES THREE

If you are using oil in the swivel hubs then the Railko bush should get lubricated pretty quickly. If you have freewheeling hubs then make sure they are engaged or the oil won't get thrown up to the top though.

What did the mechanic do to the steering box? He may have actually over tightened it. If he was trying to remove all play out of the box then he would probably keep turning the adjuster. Might need to back that off a little and see how it goes. Also did you get a report of the settings from the wheel alignment? Really the only thing that can be set is toe and it has to be slightly toe-in.

Cheers,

TimJ.

Thanks TimJ,
Yes I am using oil in the swivel housing and have the free wheel hubs locked in. I'll try backing off the adjuster on the steering box and see how that goes. Unfortunately I didn't get a report re the alignment.
Once again many thanks.

It might be worth checking the relay box for lubrication, it has 2 spring loaded tapered bushes intended to damp road shocks. If the bushes dry out the resistance will be high and will give the symptoms you describe.
My '82 S3 had that problem and pumping a bit of diff oil into it fixed it.
If it doesn't have an oiling plug in the side, you can remove the top and put the oil in, it will run down to the bottom bush.
Terry

First step - find where the problem is - jack up both front wheels - from the symptoms, the steering should be quite stiff (if it isn't, check tyre pressure!). Disconnect the Tie rod, doesn't matter which end, although probably easier from the LH swivel. If this eases the stiffness - problem is RH railko. Similarly disconnect the drag link from the relay - if this eases the steering, it is the LH railko (or possibly the steering damper).

This leaves the relay and the steering box. Unfortunately disconnecting either end of the link from the box to the relay is not very easy, so another approach may be taken. Back off the adjustment on the pitman shaft thrust, accesible by removing the cover under the mudguard. If this frees the steering the problem is the box and you just need to adjust it properly. (And make sure it has oil in it!). If this does not free the steering, then everything points to the relay. The best thing here is to remove two opposite screws from the top of the relay, and refill it with oil using a syringe. The railko bushes in it may need overnight to soak in oil if, as is likely, it is completely dry, and exercising it will help distribute the oil. If there is any suggestion that it has been filled with grease, you will probably have to fill it with a solvent such as turps, and remove a bottom screw to flush it, before you will manage to get much oil in. If the bottom seal leaks, it can be replaced in situ, a much better bet than removing the relay in most cases - they tend to rust into place in the tube through the chassis.

But my guess is that the steering box adjustment is the problem, and you might want to try that to start with! (But still jack up booth sides so you know what you are doing!)

Hope this helps,

John

Good advice John - much better than my jump to conclusions method.
After reading the original post again it does sound like steering box adjustment.
Terry

Many thanks for the advice, John and Terry. I will do that. Will the fact that I failed to lubricate the top railko bushes prior to their installation cause any long term problems? Should I remove them and wipe some gear oil onto them and reinstall as well.
Many thanks
Vince

Originally Posted by Dobby

Many thanks for the advice, John and Terry. I will do that. Will the fact that I failed to lubricate the top railko bushes prior to their installation cause any long term problems? Should I remove them and wipe some gear oil onto them and reinstall as well.
Many thanks
Vince

I have never assembled them without lubrication, so I don't know what effect it will have. To be on the safe side I would be inclined to remove the pin and oil them - it is not a very big job, although it is probably not strictly necessary, as the oil thrown round by the U-joint will lubricate them quickly - and any damage by running dry has probably already occurred!

John

The railco bushes are a phenolic self lubricating thrust bearing, I assume they used this because lubrication issues with the top bearing. You should be fine assembling them unlubricated. I think the issue would be elsewhere. The steering dampening Is a good place to check too.

Banks