Gilbert

Well all was going well.
Then Oldest child's boy friend thought It wold be a good Idea to work on his Toyota Supra, project car.
My tools, and now he's moved into MY shed/ Land Rover work area. [bawl]
And constantly being told He's "MY boyfriend", not yours !!!!
What do I do ????
Shoot him, have no trouble getting rid of the body at work.
Coax him into the car , weld the doors shut, and set fire to the car ????
Take him surfing at BYRON BAY as shark bait ????
Help !!!!!

whitehillbilly

Well the chassis work is nearing completion.
Time to take off front, so armed with a photo copy of the chassis from the Green Bible and lots of measurements, the grinder went in.
The original roughly done repairs, were out height wise but within the normal LR 1/4 inch tolerance.

whitehillbilly

I Take it back, "The 6ft3 Boyfriend" has his uses.
Chassis upended and tapped with a block of wood, to get rid of any loose dirt, rust, rat s**t and rats nest.
Noticed looking down the LH rail a big rust bulge above the bump stop plate, which went un noticed from the outside.
Thought about it and even though it doesn't look to bad, I cannot see between the two plates, so will cut it out.
Don't want to be doing it in 10 years. Also might poor a bottle of rust kill down each rail and swish around before welding on the front, as it is easier to do now, and most internal rust seems on the bottom and up the side of each rail by 20mm or so.
Tapped front and took some measurements. Need to take 4 or 5mm off RH rail for all to line up as per book measurements, without the 1/4 inch tolerance.

whitehillbilly

Well at last the Supra left My shed under its own steam.
Don't remember that many oil stains on the floor when it went in.
So back to the chassis today.
Quick question about the front and rear springs.
I take it there is a left and right hand side, and the fronts and backs are different, but do the individual springs have to be put in the correct way round ????
Thanks.

Whitehillbilly

Measure the distance to the centre bolt in them Shane.

Cheers, Mick

I'm pretty certain all Series springs are symmetrical, but measure to be sure.

Thanks for the replies.
Pulled apart and cleaned first spring. Looked ok, but was surprised how much mud and rust was inside.
What should I do about the wear ridges on the springs.
What about using graphite power as a lub on reassembly.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

Grind the ridges smooth, but be careful not to thin the leaf. Also worth putting a bit of a taper on the top of the next leaf down so it does not catch on the ridge, but rides up on it.
I don't know about graphite power, but graphite powder will work, but won't stay in place as well as, for example, graphite grease.

Thanks John.
Already did as you suggested, using my sanding disk on my grinder, to smooth out the top edge of the step. Didn't smooth right back to spring.
Also chamfered the rubbing edge of the springs.
The springs on the rear of my 88, have the hole in the middle of the spring, on all leafs, so doesn't matter which way round they face.
Did observe the rear ridges/step was more worn on the rear end of the spring.
I gave the a good wire wheel clean, the wipe down with turps.
Lightly over with the sanding disk, then a paint with rustkill.
My idea then being assemble and paint.
really reluctant to wet Lub, as many on LR forums suggest, in our dusty climate ????
Not sure if to paint individual leafs.
7 hrs later and 1 not completed.
You comments, please.
Gave will be licking his lips, Progress slow.


whitehillbilly

Eased off the Nut, after hitting it twice with my blow torch and tapped out the centre bolt.
I used a couple of G clamps, to ease off spring tension.
Surprised to find no corrosion, even still 'silver' in middle section.
Ran die down bolt, and found I had a new packet of the correct UNF, Nyloc nuts.
Quick wire wheel, coat of etch grey, primer and then coat of black enamel. will install with a wiping of anti seize when I reassemble.

whitehillbilly.