Gilbert

A damaged gal chassis is likely to make the car a writeoff, as the whole car would have to be stripped to allow the chassis to be regalvanised. A non-galvanised chassis might not be, as the repairs could be carried out with little dismantling.

Life of galvanising, as for life of an ungalvanised chasssis is completely dependent on the driving conditions and how it is looked after. UK experience is likely to show a lot shorter life than here, as the weather is wetter than most places in Australia, and they use salt on the roads in the UK.

Back to a nicely painted Black Chassis, I think.
Don't really Know :bangin:

whitehillbilly

When I restored my S1 the galvanizer's didn't recommend doing the chassis as I had to blast the out side & to remove the paint but they can not tell how clean the in side is after being in the pickle. Said it could only get 30% coverage on the inside if lucky. He said to blast the out side , spray with zinc paint, etch prime then top coat. Then treat the inside with fish oil. I made up a spray system using sprinkler hose & micro spray jet that I pulled through the chassis rails the X members & out rigers I used a kero gun to spray inside with fish oil.

Great replies as allways.
Took off the front springs. Only find the number on LH one.
Big height difference between LH/RH, being higher. Fuel tank and driver, to even out.
Snapped bolt, even after heating and cooling twice. Do I need a special bolt ????
Or just round off a 9/16 H/Tensile ones, head, to fit inside Diff fixing hole ????

whitehillbilly

One spring may be a replacement with no number. All Series Landrover springs are 'handed', with more set on the Driver side ones.

No reason why not to make a centrebolt, as long as you can make it fit the hole in the axle reasonably well. It does not even need to be high tensile, as it is only there to hold the spring together before assembly and to position it correctly. If the U-bolts do their job properly, there should be virtually no load on it. And you could even argue that having the head very hard is, if it does move, going to wear the recess in the axle, which is hard to fix, rather than to wear the centrebolt, which is easy to replace.

Thanks John.
I was going to add a bracket on the passenger side, in case I add a smaller spare fuel tank later.
Will the seat box with its tool compartment still fit, if I add the bracket ????
I know it has to be removed to add the spare tank.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

Cut the last piece of rust from Gilberts Chassis.
Under LH front bump stop.
New chassis plate added, then newly made bump stop bracket.
now to measure and attach front cross member, battery bracket, tow hitch and paint.

whitehillbilly

Nice work...maybe I am too easily pleased...but there are few things more satisfying than cutting out rust and replacing with sound steel.

Thank You.
And my welding is getting so much better.
In fact very happy to cut out and put in A new piece.
Now if only I could perfect welding from under on my back !!!![bawl]
Was given a hint of lowering the heat. Must give it a try.

whitehillbilly

The Great thing about no time frame is time to think.
About to weld up "New" front cross member, Tomorrow maybe.
I have photo copy of The Green Bible, Chassis measurements, in the shed with me.
Should I bolt up, with poly bushes, the unrestored springs in place before welding up in place.????
Or just rely on Land Rover 1/4 inch tollerence ????
Any thoughts. PPPPLLLLLEEEEAAAASSSSEEEEEE.

whitehillbilly