Reply With QuoteI don't think they were different size, but certainly the hose connections are different. Four cylinder radiators come in several varieties as well, including different connections as well.
John
Master
Does anyone know if there was a different sized radiator for the different engines?
RoverLord
I don't think they were different size, but certainly the hose connections are different. Four cylinder radiators come in several varieties as well, including different connections as well.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
AT REST
Yes, different p/ns, different shrouds (if you use one).
However I'm reasonably sure that each could be adapted by using non-standard hoses.
If it is important, radiator workshops can change the position of pipe connections.
Master
The reason i ask is because my Series 3 is fitted with a V6 Mitsubishi engine, and it overheated the other day. The car is fitted with the 4 cylinder bulkhead but the 6 cylinder front brakes. Not sure if the radiator is from the four cylinder or six cylinder landy that this Frankenstein was built from, and if the overheating might be because it only has the 4 cylinder radiator.
Bigger engine = bigger radiator? I'm not really sure.
Oh and by overheated i mean blew a hole in the side of the overflow bottle because i didn't keep an eye on the temperature gauge. I was on the beach in the soft sand so that might be the reason but i wouldn't have been driving for more than 20 minutes, in Low - 3rd.
AT REST
We should have asked you "why do you ask this mightyrr ?" ...Originally Posted by The Mighty Range Rover
Sounds more to me like it needs a thorough cleaning system checkout and cleanout .... has it got a fan ?, if it is viscous is it working?, has it got a shroud ?, does it fit ?, does the thermostat work?, how long is it since you had the radiator tank removed and the tubes rodded ? etc etc
NB there would be no difference between the effective cooling size of the radiator for 4 or 6 cyl.
LR radiators (and most radiators) can be fine if they're clean and all components of the cooling system are working correctly..
RoverLord
The most likely cause for overheating will be either the system is not in good condition - either the water or airways partially blocked, or the fan and shroud are inadequate, something that is very likely with a conversion such as you describe. And this is particularly the case when the overheating happened, as you describe, when travelling very slowly, so the air through the radiator depended only on the fan.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
I did recently flush the cooling system and put fresh coolant in.
Might be the fan or shroud then.
Wizard
SubscriberIt could also be a faulty or missing thermostat, loose fan belt or badly corroded water pump.
As John said the most likely cause is a blocked radiator. Flushing may not cure the problem. The cores could be blocked. It can be rodded but to do this the radiator will need to go to a specialist.
Does the motor have a fixed or viscous coupled fan? If it is viscous it could also be that coupling failing.
Photo's of the shroud/fan/radiator set up will make our guesses more accurate!!
Phil
Last edited by Phil B; 5th November 2014 at 06:24 AM. Reason: Ask for photo's
Master
Here are some photos.
Thermostat is okay as far as i'm aware, so is the fan.
My dad thinks it might be the radiator cap not relieving the pressure correctly.
Super Moderator
There are a number of issues:In the years since the vehicle was built it is possible that the radiator has been replaced with a cheaper 3 row core instead of the standard Aussie 4 row core. This has been particularly prevalent when the cost buying and of bringing a replacement radiator out from the UK was often cheaper than getting an Ozzie 4 row re-core.
- Australian spec vehicles from the early 1960s were built with the diesel 4 row core radiator.
- English spec petrol vehicles were usually built with a 3 row core radiator.
- Do you have a coolent recovery cap? This is needed when using a non-pressurised recovery bottle like the SIII. You can tell a recovery cap because it has a secondary valve and spring which works in the oposite flow direction.
I actually have a Landy that had a recore in Melbourne with a 3 row core, the tanks for both the 3 row and 4 row are the same. (It now has a 4 row core and oil cooler)
It is something worth checking with your current radiator.
It is also my practice to take a radiator out of a second-hand vehicle after I buy it and have it rodded and pressure tested by a radiator specialist. Back flushing an old radiator only goes so far with cleaning out blocked channels.
Also: You need to check the outflow pipe on your replacement overflow bottle, if you blew a hole in the previous one the outflow was blocked and the system not working correctly as designed.
While we're on radiators. Recently I was talking to a LAME who tells me that in aluminium aviation engines, especially with things like new Merlin V12 engines they aren't using glycol based coolants anymore. The practice is now to use de-mineralised water and a sacrificial annode, she has done it with her Disco 2.
Anyone else?
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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