SERIES 3 POWER STEERING CONVERSION

**chazza** · 2nd March 2010, 08:02 AM

I would love to be able to see all of the pictures but for some reason only part of each photograph shows on my computer

Sounds like a fantastic conversion Banjo!

Any chance that you could paste a link to where you keep your photos and I could look at them there?

Cheers Charlie

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 2nd March 2010, 08:13 AM

Originally Posted by chazza

I would love to be able to see all of the pictures but for some reason only part of each photograph shows on my computer

Cheers Charlie

Charlie

It's a bit of a hassle, but open Banjo's post as if you wanted to quote it. Then paste the image address into another browser window. You may even be able to then view all the images in the album.

Diana

**banjo** · 2nd March 2010, 08:30 AM

Originally Posted by chazza

I would love to be able to see all of the pictures but for some reason only part of each photograph shows on my computer

Sounds like a fantastic conversion Banjo!

Any chance that you could paste a link to where you keep your photos and I could look at them there?

Cheers Charlie

Hey Charlie all my build pictures are here but there 400 plus so it mite take you some time to look at them all...

Pictures by mebanjo - Photobucket

**akelly** · 2nd April 2010, 04:30 PM

Hi Jason,

I have a couple of questions about your setup:

1. Do you have any pics of the pitman arm and tie rod set up you used? Was there much trouble in getting a new link made with the two different ends? Is the pitman arm from the 'cruiser box about the same length as the LR one?

2. Why did you go with a RR steering column? On some other conversions from the net it looks like people use the original column but make a new steering shaft using the old LR shaft - was this not viable?

3. Did the engineer come and inspect at any point, or did they go off your photos and the report on the shaft weld? Could you give a rough cost for the engineering certificate?

Your post is awesome - the best one I've found online that shows exactly the detail needed to understand how to do this job - well done mate. I was considering the ZD fairlane version, but you've inspired me!

Have you had a chance to test it out yet?

Cheers,

Adam

**banjo** · 2nd April 2010, 06:09 PM

Originally Posted by akelly

Hi Jason,

I have a couple of questions about your setup:

1. Do you have any pics of the pitman arm and tie rod set up you used? Was there much trouble in getting a new link made with the two different ends? Is the pitman arm from the 'cruiser box about the same length as the LR one?

2. Why did you go with a RR steering column? On some other conversions from the net it looks like people use the original column but make a new steering shaft using the old LR shaft - was this not viable?

3. Did the engineer come and inspect at any point, or did they go off your photos and the report on the shaft weld? Could you give a rough cost for the engineering certificate?

Your post is awesome - the best one I've found online that shows exactly the detail needed to understand how to do this job - well done mate. I was considering the ZD fairlane version, but you've inspired me!

Have you had a chance to test it out yet?

Cheers,

Adam

Hi Adam not sure if i have pics of that but if i cant find any i will go & take some for you the pitman arm is the toyota 1 the the drag link is a little longer about four inches from memery.wasn't to hard to make i cut it to length & got them taped on a lath from engineering shop i had the landrover tap but not the toyota thats the only reson i got them to do it other wise i would of done it myself.

If you change any part of the steering it must comply with current ADRs for the steering your using so you need a colapsable column.I used the RR 1 cause i got it cheap from ebay for $80 all up & it had a sports steering wheel fitted.The landrover steering uses rods between the box & relay so i wouldn't recomend using it there would be so much work just trying to work out how to use it.

Na the engineer came & looked when i was finished ,I had spoke to him before i started it & he told me what i needed to do.

The ZD 1 is still just the ram type from memery & it will leak no matter what you do..
As for cost it will depend on what you pay for the parts..

Cost of the engineer was $350 to get it all engineered but it was another $300 to get the shaft Xrayed & the traverse hardness test.You can weld it yourself but if it fails the Xray & hardness test you will have to pay for it again till it passes.Thats the only thing i sent out to have done other than the drag link tapping..

Have i tryed it out WELL the car has been registered for a year now & i cant keep Fatty (wife) out of it as it is so easy to drive .She has a 87 4runner & mine is easier to steer while stoped & while driving..

I will be doing it again as our daughter wants a landy aswell so i get to build again..

I just went & took these i hope they help..

**banjo** · 2nd April 2010, 06:13 PM

OOPS i stuffed up there heres the rest.

**banjo** · 2nd April 2010, 06:19 PM

Its also best to make the draglink from 4140 bar for strength,unless you can afford billet alloy..

**akelly** · 2nd April 2010, 06:20 PM

Great! Thanks Jason.

I guess the UK and US have different requirements for compliance - hence why they dont use a collapsible column. Yours makes more sense from a safety perspective.

Your version is much better than the ZD ram - sounds like this mod may keep my wife happy too!

Cheers,

Adam

**banjo** · 2nd April 2010, 06:47 PM

Find Slunnie on here & you can go to his site from there i think its in his signature.He use a dico column but the same box..

I was thinking of making a couple of my set up ,up as kits just never got around to it. But you should be able to get out of it for around $1100.
If you lived closer i would give you a hand or do it for you as i am bored i just need save a bit so i can get another one myself.
If you read this you will know why i haven't done to much.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...rrassment.html

Other wise i would be doing it more for people i enjoy doing that sort of stuff.
Keep an eye out in the papers for a 60 series thats being wrecked you mite be able to get the box & shaft for around $200 if your lucky ..

**akelly** · 2nd April 2010, 07:27 PM

Hey Jason,

thanks for all that mate. I checked out Slunnies site - I had looked at it a long while ago but had forgotten how good his work is.

Thanks for the link to your other thread - wow, it's HUGE! I should have seen that earlier - would have saved a few questions eh?

I'm off my feet at the moment thanks to a busted leg (bloody motorbikes!) and planning some winter projects for my SIIA 88 once I can get around again. The wife is keen on power steering (she has taken over the disco as her car) so that is high on the list - I think a conversion the same as yours and Slunnies is probably going to be the best bet. I want to get the landy looking original but with improvements (like PS, 6cyl brakes, power assisted clutch, better soundproofing, heater, seatbelts etc...) so it can replace the motorbike as my daily transport.

Thanks again for the speedy responses and all the info. Once I get all the gear together and get into it I'll try and post up some pics of the work. I think I'll be outsourcing the job of welding the steering shaft but the rest looks pretty straight forward. My landy is running a 186 so a PS pump will be easy. The only downside will be losing the "banjo" steering wheel that I spent about 3 days restoring a couple of years back!

Cheers,

Adam

Thread: SERIES 3 POWER STEERING CONVERSION

Thread Tools

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions