Thread: series 3

SO,
spare series 3 chassis anyone.
Northern NSW- SE QLD.
Shame I cut the front off the series 2 one I had.
But guess I have some bits.

whitehillbilly

Had a play with the electric's on Bert.
The only thing that appears to work is the Green Engine pressure light, when the key is turned on.
Suspect a main feed is missing somewhere.
Some type of feed appear off the solenoid, starter side, which doesn't seem right.
Solenoid works if I activate the small White/red wire into it via a live feed from the battery.
Would have thought this went to the fuses then to starter key position.
Any thoughts please.

whitehillbilly

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

.....

what grade motor oil should I use on this old motor, as I would like to give it an oil change, but not the filter at this stage ????
Idles and revs nice with not much smoke, very small amount when removed the filler cap. Will have to take the rocker cover hose off and see if any comes out.
Also will change air cleaner oil and give it a clean. Whats the best way for the old boy, as Gilberts was flushed and painted.
Hose is perished, but have a new one, in my new bits box. ( don't tell Gilbert )

whitehillbilly

Oil grade - not very critical, although it depends on how worn the engine is. 10W30 or 20W-40 in summer if pretty good condition, if worn, 20W-50. Any oil you can buy today is better than what was specified for this engine. I would change the filter - they are cheap.

Look for a lot of smoke when accelerating after idling for a few minutes - indicates intake valve stem seals. Easy to replace.

John

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Sprayed and freed up OD lever, seized where John suggested, Thanks John.
Noticed today original locking hubs on the front wheels.
Are kits available for these ????
Do the have many problems.
Will look in my two manuals, to see if they are covered.
Thanks

whitehillbilly

There were several varieties of locking hubs fitted, you need to see which you have - may have an identification on them, or post a photo - someone will recognise them.

Some of the hubs tend to have problems, but most are trouble free. More troubles are likely from their use without regular use of four wheel drive or locking them. If driven almost exclusively with the hubs free expect excessive wear on the top steering swivel, and possibly rusting differential components.

John

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

No Brakes, but will sort that out.
Pushed in clutch peddle with both feet and it didn't come out. Took out 6 screws and oiled peddle bushes, and it has started freeing up, but clutch wont re engage.
What is my first step ???? start at peddle end cylinder or clutch plate end cylinder ????
What may not be releasing ????
Read in another recent post you can use a trailer brake cylinder. Does it fit straight in with no mods ????
Have another gearbox with brake cylinder attached, which I could put in.
Thanks for any replies.

whitehillbilly

Most likely problem with the clutch is the hydraulics, either the master cylinder or slave or both, possibly the flexible hose.

I would be inclined to replace both and bleed. The master cylinder is the same as the most common trailer one except for the pushrod, which will have to be transferred from the old one,

There is a very slight possibility of some sort of mechanical problem in the bell housing, but I would ensure the hydraulics are OK before even thinking about that!

John

This is an old vehicle, so almost anything made of rubber will be suspect unless obviously new. Coolant hoses, heater hoses, clutch and brake master and slave cylinders, flexible hoses may all need replacing. Brake/clutch hoses can be made up at brake places, just take the old ones in so they get the length right. The end fittings are pretty standard. Brake slave cylinders are available and almost as cheap as overhauling the old ones (might be cheaper). I think the same goes for the master cylinders and clutch slave cylinder. Getting the unions undone can be problematic when you work on the masters and you may need to get new lines made up if you snap the old ones getting them off. (This happens if the nut binds to the metal line). Don't throw out the old line until you have the new one made to the same pattern. Gearbox/Transfer case/overdrive oil should probably be GL-4 specification as GL-5 spec can damage bronze bearings (I am told).
If it leaks lots of oil, check the plate that the fuel pump bolts onto- mine was leaking a lot of oil from there (as well as other places).
Obviously many seals may also have gone hard and started leaking, you'll find out when you start driving it. Check the rubber pipes that connect the vacuum advance/retard to the manifold- a leak here can upset ignition timing and if it falls off while driving it can produce fascinating results...
My freewheeling hubs are Selectro (quite common) and they have a thin O-ring inside which can leak and drip oil onto your rims. I leave mine locked in unless doing long runs on the highway where unlocking them might generate a little fuel saving. If yours are Selectro, let me know I have an installation leaflet that I could copy and send to you which includes an exploded diagram.
Have fun,
Cheers

C00P

Thanks for the replies.
Early Selectro ones I think, but will check.
Found a sheet online. Is it the same as yours.
Second one down the page.
http://forum.landrovernet.com/showth...=selectro+hubs


Whitehillbilly

Hadnt noticed the spare wheel bracket behind the bulkhead until today, after cleaning the rubbish and cardboard out the tub.
Better get some more pics.

whitehillbilly