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Thread: Bought for parts

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Are you aware a soft flame run over the" Drippings" will fuse it all back together?

    Mine came up ok & I don't think it can be helped when it is dipped.
    I will try that thanks for the idea 4bee and yeah it was expected after being dipped that’s why I not too worried this ones going to be my daily when finished
    1960 series 2 143001010
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  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgd69 View Post
    Got the galvanising back not overly happy how it came back few drips in it but it not a show car it’s a Landy but it looks better than the rusty old cappings
    You are better off with the drips , when the galvanizers clean them off they use a air grinder & usually grind down to the original metal. If you use a smooth cut file you can file it down smooth . For big drips a bog file will take most off then finish with the smooth file. Spray aluminium paint colour is the closest you will get to Galv to touch up any blemishes , spray it on leave for about a minute then wipe with a cloth . Any were they have ground through the galv you can buy zinc sticks to repair. you heat up the area then wire brush it worm again & apply the zinc like using stick solder then work it in with a wire brush . Once cool a coat of spray aluminium to blend in.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    You are better off with the drips , when the galvanizers clean them off they use a air grinder & usually grind down to the original metal. If you use a smooth cut file you can file it down smooth . For big drips a bog file will take most off then finish with the smooth file. Spray aluminium paint colour is the closest you will get to Galv to touch up any blemishes , spray it on leave for about a minute then wipe with a cloth . Any were they have ground through the galv you can buy zinc sticks to repair. you heat up the area then wire brush it worm again & apply the zinc like using stick solder then work it in with a wire brush . Once cool a coat of spray aluminium to blend in.
    Thanks for the ideas
    1960 series 2 143001010
    1976 series 3 91331709c
    06 discovery v6
    2014 discovery tdv6
    2010 cub supamatic drover

  4. #104
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    Hi Dgd69, just stumbled over your thread and love what you’re doing with the truck. Can I please ask what type / brand paint you have used both on the chassis and the f/r diff housings? I do know of ppc chassis black, but think it’s high gloss is not right on suspension parts etc.. yours look perfect in a Matt/ satin style finish hence asking what you used?

    Cheers,

    Adam
    74 S3 SWB

  5. #105
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    Not had time to do much but I did find a alloy tray the exact dimensions to suit a 109 it was off a 82 dyna truck fitted perfectly only temp fitted atm needs to come off again and get cleaned up and bolted down correctly


    1960 series 2 143001010
    1976 series 3 91331709c
    06 discovery v6
    2014 discovery tdv6
    2010 cub supamatic drover

  6. #106
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    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The tray looks quite good. Think very carefully about how itis attached, and avoid the possibility of stress concentrations both on the chassis and on the tray.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #107
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    Been so long 3 or so months since I pulled the covers off the poor neglected Everest unfortunately work has been to busy but did a small job to finish off the cooling system fit the heater tap not the most exciting of jobs but another job done
    1960 series 2 143001010
    1976 series 3 91331709c
    06 discovery v6
    2014 discovery tdv6
    2010 cub supamatic drover

  8. #108
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    Bought for parts

    Hi all

    Had a spare hour today and thought I would start to make up the door seals
    Bought the correct profile rubber a while ago and popped into Bunnings for some aluminium strips
    Only made the 1 so far and pre drilled the holes before fitting rubbers over the top
    Test fitted to body by using gravity and seems to fit good
    I know originally they had tube rivets to secure which I do have but a rivet squeezer is expensive to buy
    I have used a modified g clamp before to squeeze tube rivets and may go this way but thinking just using some blind rivets just for the ease of installation
    1960 series 2 143001010
    1976 series 3 91331709c
    06 discovery v6
    2014 discovery tdv6
    2010 cub supamatic drover

  9. #109
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    [QUOTE=Dgd69;3075964]Hi all

    Had a spare hour today and thought I would start to make up the door seals
    Bought the correct profile rubber a while ago and popped into Bunnings for some aluminium strips
    Only made the 1 so far and pre drilled the holes before fitting rubbers over the top
    Test fitted to body by using gravity and seems to fit good
    I know originally they had tube rivets to secure which I do have but a rivet squeezer is expensive to buy
    I have used a modified g clamp before to squeeze tube rivets and may go this way but thinking just using some blind rivets just for the ease of installation
    Blind Rivets are what I used, so unless you are a purist they'll be fine with no water leaks & as they are concealed by the Gasket who is going to know anyway.

    Gaskets look a nice job. BTW, I found using Concertina Tongs with those size rivets (3/16" ally) made it a lot easier,

  10. #110
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    [QUOTE=4bee;3075973]
    Quote Originally Posted by Dgd69 View Post
    I know originally they had tube rivets to secure which I do have but a rivet squeezer is expensive to buy
    I have used a modified g clamp before to squeeze tube rivets and may go this way but thinking just using some blind rivets just for the ease of installationBlind Rivets are what I used, so unless you are a purist they'll be fine with no water leaks & as they are concealed by the Gasket who is going to know anyway.
    With semi-tubular rivets and a squeezer you can control how much pressure is applied, with blind rivets the pressure is determined by the point at which the stem breaks. You may squish the seal too much, worth a trial run first.

    I have to strip a shorty roof, then seal and re-rivet to the guttering, I've been looking in the US for a rivet squeezer for some time. There are some reasonably priced ones and at some point I'll get round to purchasing.....

    Out of interest where did you get the seal from ? I've looked at products from several suppliers and some are not even close to the original. Any chance of a picture of one end to see the profile ?

    Thanks,


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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