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Thread: My 88" Series 3

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    The chassis isn't hard to repair with some thin cut off wheel, some magnets and a mig welder (or even a arc if that's all you have). Cut the offending section and patch panel out together where you can which saves on stuffing around making a piece fit. Hold it flush in the hole with a couple of magnets then tack it in. Once it's fully welded, grind it back and use a skim of bog over the top and you'll never see the repairs.
    Great hint Homestar...never thought of doing it that way, especially the magnet idea......cheers! Ps, I pull my old computer hard drives apart and get the magnets out of there, they are very strong and handy.

  2. #92
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    Tim,

    Could you please get some close up pictures of exactly how the battery stand is mounted to the chassis?particularly where it connects to the front crossmember and the engine mounting bracket. Mine has been cut off and I need to re-build it.
    Also if someone could help me out with some pictures of the air filter bracket and how it attaches to the battery stand. My bracket is long gone with the Holden conversion. Of course this is a 1958 series 2, it may be different to yours.

    You can post it in my "Barney" thread if you would prefer not to clog up yours.
    Thanks,
    Peter.

  3. #93
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    Hi OneOff,

    Sorry was away for the weekend, did you get enough pics? Or do you need some more?

    Cheers,

    Tim

  4. #94
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    Got a coat of etch primer on the chassis as it was starting to flash rust in a couple of spots. I was hoping to go straight on with the KBS, but I'm hoping a thin coat of etch primer won't be a problem for it.





    Did the chassis come from the factory with this terrible welding? Looks worse than the stuff I do! I did ask my father, and he can't remember it ever going in for chassis repairs. (The grind marks in the first photo is my doing).











    Looks like I'll be grinding those out and re-welding them.

    The front passenger spring mount has cracked on both sides and will also need repairing.





    The badly rusted outriggers were cut off this evening as well. I'll drop them off at a local sheetmetal fabricator to get replicated.

    Cheers,

  5. #95
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    A lot of the welding on Series chassis (and later) is not very pretty, so yes, it probably did come from the factory like that!

    Fortunately, few of the welds are critical in terms of strength.

    However, I found on my 110 (after it failed at quite high mileage) one of the few welds that did matter simply was non existent! (on the chassis mount for the front radius arm)

    The fact that it lasted that long with a key weld missing is an indication as to how non-critical the chassis design is - it is actually quite well (but not perfect) designed to minimise stress concentrations.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #96
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Yep, as John said, the factory welding on the chassis can be pretty ordinary. Even before I bought my MIG, I just arc welded mine to fix the bits that needed doing - often it looked better than the original, with a lot less welding splatter.

    If your worried by any of it, Now's the time to cut sick with the welder.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  7. #97
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    Hey Tim,

    Is all good.

    Dark61 put some photos up which have shown me the details I need, his (and your) battery stand looks a bit different than what I have, but I don't know if mine is as built in 1958 or it's from something else. 60 years of living on a farm with several other Land Rovers means there was quite a bit of part swapping going on over time.
    Unless someone can post some pictures of a 1958-59 battery carrier I'll never really be sure. But I'm not that pedantic, so long as it's secure and strong I'm happy to go with what I have.

    Peter.

  8. #98
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    Well Spring finally sprung today





    I was stuck at the workshop waiting for some parts to come in, so I decided why not pull the front axles apart:

    Mmmmmm lubrirust:





    This broken clip caused more of an issue than I'm willing to admit Was a right pig to get out. The other issue is there was no other half of the clip in the chalice, so did it break when it was fitted and the mechanic though "bugger it"??? Judging by some of the other things I've found on the car I think it's likely





    This was entertaining, and a bit scary when it moved!





    And all in pieces, (with a coating of inox to stop the bits flash rusting from handling):





    Cheers,

  9. #99
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    Very thorough work.

    The new springs look exciting, except you forgot to post the picture of them unwrapped as well. Did you get parabolic???

  10. #100
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    Will unpack them soon enough Nick They are parabolics, I'm interested to see how they ride, I've only got the stock oil shocks, so I may have to upgrade them to gas to get the most out of them.

    Cheers,

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