Nice work Tim. If you pressure bleed the brakes the pdwa valve won't trigger. It only causes issues if you use the old school offsider of brake pedal method.
Chris
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Nice work Tim. If you pressure bleed the brakes the pdwa valve won't trigger. It only causes issues if you use the old school offsider of brake pedal method.
Chris
Well, work and life have really got in the way of me getting near the series 3 lately! (That and running out of funds!) I've manage a bit in between times though...
The gearbox was mostly in good nick inside, however there is a bit of damage to the reverse gear teeth on the layshaft
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/789.jpg
I think I've found a new genuine replacement, if that doesn't pan out it'll have to go back in, the damage isn't that bad, and all the forward gears are fine.
The fist/second syncro hub is also damaged with two corners broken off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/790.jpg
The bush on the mainshaft had welded itself to the shaft and come very close to failing completely
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/791.jpg
The locating pin for the bush was shorn off with the remaining part stuck in the main shaft
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/792.jpg
I was very lucky and managed to drill into it enough, with a 1.5mm drill bit, for it to grab and come out :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/793.jpg
I put the tub back on the chassis temporarily to get it out of the way, I hope the springs settle a bit!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/794.jpg
As mentioned before the old PDWA switch is getting sacraficed so it can live on as a brake bleeding tool, so the head got cut off it! In case anyone wondered what was inside the switch, there is a rusty spring, a rusty plunger, and some rust :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/795.jpg
Drilled and tapped a M6 thread down the guts of it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/796.jpg
And a long bolt, (for no other reason than it was found first), that can be screwed down on to the spindle in the PDWA valve to hold it in place while the brakes are bled
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/797.jpg
All back together, and with a light coat of clear paint to stop it rusting, (again). As tempting as it is to paint everything black the chassis would start to look a bit depressing without any contrasting colours!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/798.jpg
And back in place
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/799.jpg
The firewall also got stripped of all the bits and pieces so it can get blasted,
Before
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/800.jpg
and after :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/801.jpg
The only real rust on the firewall is near the mount for the door strap(?), the mount point has been pushed in a bit and will need to be repaired. I may make up a reinforcing plate so it doesn't happen again, (so long as there is clearance for it).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/802.jpg
Apart form that, the engine has been dropped off to the engine machinists, just have to wait to see what they recommend re the piston sizes, and if the crank needs any work.
Cheers,
Good to hear you are still alive.
Been many days between posts.
ENJOY
Andrew
Decided to pull this part to pieces this evening
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/767.jpg
There is a circular spring clip on the end of the shaft that needs to come off first, unfortunately it is holding a wacking great spring on. So, on with the Mk1 starter motor spring compressor thing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/768.jpg
The end plate has a nut gently welded to it to stop the shaft of the rotor assembly from slipping off the plate and launching itself across the workshop
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/769.jpg
Spring clip thing exposed so it can be removed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/770.jpg
The front bearing was well on its way to eating itself, fortunately the shaft is undamaged
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/771.jpg
And all the bits
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/772.jpg
Never seen a "flat" commutator before
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/773.jpg
Gave it a clean with a scotchbrite, its nice an flat with no obvious wear
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/774.jpg
Now I just need to clean/blast/paint all the other bits and put it back together. Yay. :)
Cheers,
Oh, and had a call from the engine machinist, need 20 thou oversize pistons, and 10 thou under sized bearings for the crank. Not bad for 42 years!!
Cheers,
Tim I saw a shorty with a dunnydoore V6 conversion on Gumtree(should have bookmarked it)
Look it up,it had a Willwood brake proportioner.Could be an improvement over the original.
Andrew
Thanks Andy, I'll see if I can find it. Also if you look closely there are fitting adaptors on the PDWA valve, these are so I can fit "t joints", with inverted flares, to bypass the PDWA valve. Despite claims on the internets the PDWA valve does not isolate a leaking circuit, it will activate the warning switch, but still allow fluid to pass, so in effect does no more than the level switch in the brake fluid reservoir.
I've decided to leave the car as standard for now, (I mean it has worked up to the point where I pulled it apart :angel: ). If it ****es me off too much then I'll do something with it :)
Cheers
I dunno, my PDWA would isolate flow to the open circuit. That is why it is pain to bleed the brakes, as on the second pump the valve would trigger and I could not get any flow from the bleed nipple at the wheel....
That Wilwood unit is only a brake proportioning valve. It won't deal with a circuit failure? My brakes pull up balanced with no rear wheel lockup.
This is true Tim, the pdwa valve does not isolate the circuit but still allowes pressure to be applied to both circuits. It turns on the light to alert u of a fault and then still allowes a braking effect to the good circuit. The pedal will go almost to the floor, but will still pull u up on the good brake circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimNZ
A proportioning valve will apply a different amount of force to the 2 circuits usually about 60%Front 40%rear.
I have incorrectly called my pdwa valve a proportioning valve in my build thread.
The brake fluid level indicator is just that. If the fluid is low the light comes on. If u have a leak or failure on a dual circuit system without a pdwa valve u will have total brake failure, where as with the pdwa valve u wont.
Cheers Rod
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