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Thread: 6 cyl rover starting issue

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by timbo72 View Post
    It turns out that the main shaft in the distributor had a collapsed shim. The end float was 9mm! (meant to be 0.1) and the rotor wasnt transferring spark to the cap. Let's just say that a lot of parts were checked and replaced before I figured that out.

    Bought a new Lucas Distributor from SimonBBC with an electronic ignition kit, put it in by sight only and it started first go and ran smoothly. I now have to tune the carby again and properly time it with a light. I have a good 2 hours of work under the hood, putting it all back together now. The best $150 I have spent on the car.

    Items I checked :
    Coil (replaced)
    Leads (replaced)
    Plugs (replaced)
    Cap (replaced)
    Rotor (replaced)
    Carby (rebuilt)
    Vaccuum Advance (new)
    Radio Supressor (new)
    Coil 12V supply (hot wired out window)


    May get the Bosch distributor rebuilt, however it is 40 years old.

    Thanks for all advice along the way.

    Tim
    Look at it this way. you won't have to worry about al that for a while....🤞🤞🤞
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #12
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    If you have the dollars you can buy a brand new dizzy for them from the UK - not cheap though, but they are a full electronic job straight off the shelf. .
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #13
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    it pays to check what voltage the coil is meant to be running at. A bosch distributor would normally run at 8 voltsish but would use 12 volts to start. The coil should state whether it is to be used with a resistor.
    If you run without the resistor the coil will overheat fairly quickly.
    If you have a wiring problem you may not be getting enough voltage to the coil when starting, but an electronic distributor will overcome this, but it is best to check and rectify the problem if it occurs.
    Ian
    Bittern

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Melb, AU
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian4002000 View Post
    it pays to check what voltage the coil is meant to be running at. A bosch distributor would normally run at 8 voltsish but would use 12 volts to start. The coil should state whether it is to be used with a resistor.
    If you run without the resistor the coil will overheat fairly quickly.
    If you have a wiring problem you may not be getting enough voltage to the coil when starting, but an electronic distributor will overcome this, but it is best to check and rectify the problem if it occurs.
    Ian
    Bittern
    The coil was running at 12V when I bought the car a few years ago - it had points then. I quickly changed it over to a basic hall effect sensor and it improved cold starting a lot.
    The new distributor (Lucas 25D) comes fitted with the same type of sensor, so it doesn't require points and needs to be 12V, but still looks original from outside.

    I will probably get the old Bosch unit rebuilt given that it was the original army fitment. I also have a lot of spare parts for the Bosch unit.

    Tim
    Frankston

  5. #15
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    Westlake ,brisbane
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    This is one of the Bosch Dist Cam / spindle's I have .IMAG1144.jpgIMAG1143.jpgIMAG1142.jpg

    I may not get to Post Office today as I need to do some Work on my BMW but will get there tomorrow.
    Wayne

  6. #16
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    Mar 2015
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    I put a new coil and electronic dizzy in my ex mil 2.6, it ran superbly for about 5-6 months. I noticed some oil on the very top of the engine under the coil and found that the threaded pole on the coil had snapped upon install of the wires.
    I definitely didn't over tighten it in enthusiasm as I have done this upgrade to other vehicles in the past. The oil drained from the coil and it started to get hot, as it was not a ballast system I put the original coil back in. It ran well for another month then it just fried the new dizzy components.
    I ended up putting the original set up back in and as my daily driver it has been happy ever since.

    Bring on the winter wombat!!!!!
    Lee

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    in the wild New England, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    Doese it have a Solex S U , if so I would be checking the diaphragm in the top of the carby, after sitting it could have gone hard or split once the piston moved. while you have the top off you could blow through the jet.
    I guess it still has the original Stromberg CD175.

    These can be sometimes considered to look a little bit like an SU.

    A perished diaphragm in a Stromberg will still allow the engine to idle. However you will need to replace the diaphragm before you can travel anywhere.

    Sounds to me like your electric fuel pump picked up some crud or water, try cleaning the system out and see how you go

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