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Thread: To Buy Or Not To Buy A Land Rover

  1. #1
    thumbsucker Guest

    To Buy Or Not To Buy A Land Rover

    I am seeking advice regarding if purchasing a Land Rover series 2 or series 3 is the right choice for me.

    On one hand the points in favour (Warning nostalgia):

    • As a child I have fond memories of my grandfather who had two Land Rovers and as a child we used to go up into the Swiss Alps in summer driving those Land Rovers.
    • I love the sheetmetal interior and the utter lack of aesthetic refinement.
    • I love the rattle & hum of a Land Rover - almost agricultural


    On the negative - side people telling NOT to buy a Land Rover because:

    • Land Rovers chew through petrol
    • Land Rovers are expensive to fix
    • Land Rover are unreliable, prone to breaking down and having gremlins


    A friend of mine said that there is nothing wrong with buying an old car, yes I will spend time fixing it, however I will learn how it works. I am fairly physically capable. I have restored a few old woodworking machines and while a car a far more complex undertaking it is not beyond my capacity to learn.

    Any thoughts or comments?

  2. #2
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    Firstly, welcome to the forum. I, like others on here will say go for it with most of the crowd against the idea have probably never owned or even driven one.

    Any car that is neglected will have issues regardless of brand and parts/spares are really no different to others, you just have to do your homework.

    There is a huge amount of info and assistance here as well as many good vendors/suppliers. There are even a few that specalise in older Series Landys as well as a club based in SE Qld dedicated to the leaf spring jiggers.

    A link to the Series Landy Owners Club inc. (SLOw )

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/slow/

    Anyway, welcome once again and good luck with your search. If you have any questions, just post them up.

  3. #3
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    There are no guarantees with buying an old vehicle, but it is certainly possible to have trouble free run with a good one.

    In 1983 I bought a 1973 Series III LWB with 110,000 on the odometer. Although that was almost certainly not an accurate indication of the distance it had covered.

    I sold it 23 years later in 2006 with about 300,000 on the odometer. In all that time, it only left me stranded once when I ran out of petrol and once when I had a flat tyre when I had left the spare at home.

    While I didn't do any really adventurous trips in it, I did drive it along the Oodnadatta Track, the Tanami Track and the Gibb River Road. I drove it to Darwin a couple of times and crossed Australia diagonally from the SE corner to the NW corner.

    I did replace the engine (which I discovered was a Series II engine) with a second hand Series III engine and did a few other jobs like rings and bearings, brake linings, wheel bearings and such.

    It couldn't have been expensive to maintain as I was just about living from hand to mouth at that time paying about 18% on my home loan.

    While there are some dud old vehicles out there, there are also some gems that won't send you broke.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  4. #4
    thumbsucker Guest
    Thanks Paul - I have many questions - I have been watching Land Rovers for sale online mostly gumtree.

    1. I see people say "Good straight body" what exactly does this mean? Are they talking about the chassis?
    2. Often the seller will say that the Land Rover comes with a Holden engine, I assume this Holden engine was added to replace the original engine.
    3. Is there a thread or an online resource that can advice me on what to look for when purchasing series 3 Land Rovers?

  5. #5
    thumbsucker Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by vnx205 View Post
    While there are some dud old vehicles out there, there are also some gems that won't send you broke.
    Well that is the heart of the matter. How do I tell the gem from the dud?

    Obvious things like rust can easily be seen or if something is rattling loose, however how do I know if there is a problem with the engine and if its big or small.

    Like there is a Land Rover on gumtree:

    motor runs well though a bit smoky. Everything there. transmission good. new fuel pump. Bad points - clutch slave cylinder needs works ( very tricky to get into gear at moment) starter motor needs a whack to re-engage quite often.
    A quick search tells me that "clutch slave cylinder" & "starter motor" are an ease cheap / fix however smoking motor tells me there can possible be deep problems.

    Out of interest what is a fair price? $2000 seems to be on the low with $6000 on the high. Not mentioning the Land Rovers selling for +/-$800 range for scrap & parts.

  6. #6
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    There is no one single thread or site that will answer all your questions but here is a good start.

    Your price range options are as wide as your choice of vehicles. Take some time and do some homework (ask lots of questions ). If you find something, post up the details and I am sure you will get some assistance. We (us Landy Nuts) are spread over this great country so there may even be someone nearby that can have a look with you.

    On the $$ side, I would think $6K would get you a very nice Series Landy. Do you have any preferences. SWB, LWB, diesel, petrol, need to carry bodies (kids ?), etc.

  7. #7
    thumbsucker Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by pop058 View Post
    On the $$ side, I would think $6K would get you a very nice Series Landy. Do you have any preferences. SWB, LWB, diesel, petrol, need to carry bodies (kids ?), etc.
    I would prefer diesel however I "believe" that diesel is not as common. I would prefer a LWB. Since I need a car that can haul timber, wood working machines and some times takes me out bush as I enjoy camping.

    Do not need a people mover. I was even thinking of adding a raised platform in the back, so that I could add storage underneath and a mattress on top when I decide to travel.

    HOWEVER - If a great SWB is available and I could always get a trailer to help me haul.

    Quote Originally Posted by pop058 View Post
    We (us Landy Nuts) are spread over this great country so there may even be someone nearby that can have a look with you.
    Will do. That would be most helpful.

  8. #8
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    Series diesels are less common than the petrol and are not known for their abundance of horsepower. The LWB are a bit heavier so the horsepower issue is a bit more obvious.

  9. #9
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    A series 2/2a Landrover is at least 45 years old, and a Series 3 at least 33 years old, so this has to be borne in mind when thinking about it.

    At this age, you are either going to be buying one that is in pretty poor shape, or one that someone has spent a fair bit of money on (although possibly not recently), so prices vary widely. Minimum will be scrap value, about $500, maximum, unless it is a historic vehicle or possibly a perfect restoration, perhaps $7500, although some models are quite rare and can command higher prices. You need to be aware that there is no way you will recoup the money you spend doing it up when you sell it (although some sellers will base their asking price on this - but they won't sell at that).

    You should be able to get something that is registered and roadworthy for around $5,000, although this will vary with the model and modifications. Fundamental classes are whether it is Series 2/2a or Series 3, and wheelbase, long or short. For both of the Series there is a choice of engine, four cylinder petrol or diesel, six cylinder, and for Series 3 only, V8 or Isuzu (both lwb only).

    Basic body styles for the swb are soft top, hardtop, cab ute or trayback. Lwb is the same plus five door station wagon. The swb also came as a 3-door station wagon, a variant of the hardtop with up market trim and side facing rear seats.

    Body styles can relatively easily be changes to anything that fits the wheelbase for any model, so, for example, if you want a hardtop, but the best you can find is a soft top, you can buy it and convert it - that particular change, once you get the parts, is probably only an afternoon's work, although squaring the change with your registration authority may take longer.

    Engines:- The four cylinder diesel is reliable, economical - and noisy and rough, but not as long lasting as some some, and very underpowered by modern standards. The 2l version up to 1961 is even more underpowered and is very hard to find parts for, but virtually any you find will have had it replaced by the later engine, so any you find may be considered a real museum piece.

    The four cylinder petrol is tough, very reliable, very durable given half decent maintenance, smooth, quiet, adequate power for the swb, bit underpowered in the lwb, and thirsty, especially in the lwb. It is quite amenable to having the power increased by relatively cheap modifications.

    The six is not all that much more powerful than the four, very smooth, and is reliable and durable, although some maintenance is fairly critical. Unlike the other engines, parts can be hard to find.

    The V8 is smooth, relatively powerful, and very easy to upgrade, as variants with much more power were fitted to Rangerovers etc. Looked after they are very durable, but also very thirsty.

    The Isuzu 4BD1 was fitted as an option to the V8 in Australian assembled late Series 3. They are ultra reliable, ultra durable, reasonably powerful (and can be turbocharged easily), and economical, but very rough, to the extent that you need to look carefully for vibration damage to the body. Parts are readily available.

    It is quite common for the engine to be replaced in Series Landrovers, usually, but not always by a Holden engine, particularly in the seventies and eighties. This was usually done because the original engine was worn out, and the cost of overhauling it was a lot more than the cost of replacing it with a very cheap Holden one, which had the advantage of more power and cheaper and easier parts. Less apparent was that the most Holden engines are not happy with the gearing provided (so many now have an overdrive), some of the commercially supplied adapters were of insufficient accuracy, resulting in early (and sometimes repeated) gearbox failure. Also, neither the Stromberg carburettors nor the Holden engine lubrication functioned well at some of the angles encountered off road. In my view a Holden engine lowers the value of any Series Landrover except ones that were originally sixes.

    What I suggest you do is to spend a good deal of time browsing through the threads in the Series forums on this site. This will enable you to gain a much better idea whether you really want a Series Landrover, and if so, which one.

    You need to understand from the outset, that none of them have the passive safety of any modern vehicle, they all have drum brakes, mostly single circuit, although dual circuit and disc brakes can be fitted to any, none have power steering, although it can be fitted, and none ride as well as most modern vehicles, or have their creature comforts - but heaters can be fitted to any, and air conditioning is possible although not easy.

    As a general rule, parts for Series 2/2a/3 Landrovers are available and fairly cheap, and if properly maintained they are reliable, although requiring more maintenance than modern vehicles.

    Hope this helps!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
    thumbsucker Guest
    JDNSW & pop058 - thank you for the detailed response. I have read and reread the post.

    It seems better to go for a four cylinder petrol engine.
    I would prefer a series 3, just because its a newer model.
    As for body style I am flexible.

    Regarding diesel engine can you retrofit a turbocharger?

    Regarding Restoration

    I purchased a 1962 Waldown Australian Made Drill press for which I paid $300. The thing was an absolute mess, more rust then paint, parts broken, butchered & modified a poor excuse of a machine, however after many months of pain stacking work, involving stripping down the components, removing all the rust and paint, then powder coating, as well as dozens of minor repairs, in the end it has ended up costing me $1500. I now have a machine that is a pride of joy a talking point with other woodworkers. A comparable modern Australian made machine would cost me $6000. So it was well worth the effort.

    I am therefor happy to put in any work to restore a machine to its former glory.

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