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Thread: Intro and series 3 heater

  1. #1
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    Intro and series 3 heater

    Hi all,

    First off - thank you! Your posts to date have been so helpful and informative it's awesome. I decided to buy a Landy after I paid $500 for an abs sensor on a modern chuck away vehicle. My father has had, used and serviced (and repaired!) land rovers for about 50 years and he had 2 until I acquired one...I even learnt to drive in a series Landy and I fondly remember sitting on his knee when I was about 5 steering while he did the rest!

    This old girl had been sitting for about 4 years in the drive. Bl**dy good truck no rust (from the country) but missed her maintenance...so we have spent the last month getting her ready for an RWC and giving her some much needed attention. Loved every minute! Even the bolts that refuse to budge, stripped threads and general swearing that is necessary and seems to help during routine maintenance. WD40 has been a good friend over the last few weekends.

    Thanks to my fathers history with landys, copies of the original parts and service manuals he has (let me know if I can look something up for you) and this forum we haven't been stumped to many times. Except brakes....always the brakes...but even there solid now

    But now we have hit a road block. The heater, switched her on and smoke from the electric motor, better service that, so removed it. No problem we can fix it but my question is how the hell does the cover come off the heater? Black casing on the front, removed all the small screws but it feels tight and given how expensive these things are I don't want to force it (knowing full well a bit of brute is required every now and then when dealing with a stubborn piece of the old girl).

    image.jpg

    Any help would be much appreciated!

    Cheers
    Chris

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Logan Village area S.E. QLD
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    Welcome to the forum Chris.

    In our experience just undo the screws and it comes apart, lube the screws and hopefully it will come apart. I know how rare these Heater boxes are, be gentle, they are a sort after.

    Mrs hh
    Series Landy Rescue

    Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
    Our FB Page..
    https://www.facebook.com/SeriesLR?ref=bookmarks

    '51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles

  3. #3
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    Thanks MrsHH - that's what i thought but I have a feeling PO glued it with something. Won't budge with the screws out and unfortunately the other half looked like this

    image.jpg

    See how I go, thanks again

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Molesworth,Tasmania
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    Could it be just rusted on? Have a go with a redundant pointed knife and some wd40 and see if anything gives. Otherwise a wreck is your friend.
    Cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Brisbane
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    Gentle pressure

    Hello from Brisbane.

    I'm a bit unclear about what part of the heater you are talking about here.

    If it is removing the motor, and especially the impeller which has to come off as part of the process, it is fairly straightforward if you know what you are dealing with. Unfortunately, the manuals are useless in that regard - they just say to remove it.

    If it is removing the impeller in order to get the motor off its mounting bracket and access to the front screws that you are puzzling over, you will see that it is apparently held on to the shaft by a zinc plated clamp. Once this is removed you would think that the impeller should slide off the shaft. However, it usually won't. What you can't see is that the shaft under the impeller has a small hole through which a piece of fine wire is threaded that locks the impeller to prevent it rotating on the shaft. My recommended removal procedure without breaking the impeller is to put the motor in a soft jawed vice and put a couple of long handled screw drivers between the motor and impeller and (having liberally used penetrating oil beforehand) put steady pressure on the job until the impeller starts to move on the shaft. Once it clears the wire it usually slides off. You can then access the front screws and it all should come apart fairly easily.

    Now if that is your situation I hope it is useful. Should you find that the motor is stuffed anyway there is an auto electrician down Coopers Plains way who can fix them. Wreckers are an option but the part could be 40 plus years old and not much better than what you have.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  6. #6
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    Thanks for that guys. Neil, yes got the motor off and the impeller no problem, as you say except I used a punch on the top of the shaft with a gentle tap and 2 chocks of wood between the motor and impeller, worked a treat. Tested the motor...buzzed like it came out of the factory yesterday in high and low! I love landys.

    Once I had the heater box out it became pretty clear...it's not the front that comes off but the side....my bad. No damage done though in the process so that's good.

    This is how it looks currently:

    image.jpg

    Plan is to chop the rust back, patch with a bit of thin sheet metal and some pop rivets, add a small drain hole and a coat of paint and it'll be like new.

    Just out of interest what do you think is the best way to clean the core?

    Cheers, Chris

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisInAus View Post

    Just out of interest what do you think is the best way to clean the core?

    Cheers, Chris
    Chris,

    Hello again from Sherwood.

    Glad to hear you got the impeller off without rooting it. Ditto the air box.

    I got my heater core rebuilt by a small radiator repair place in Wooloongabba (Airrad in Annerley Rd). They didn't charge much ($40?) and did a good job.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  8. #8
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    Nov 2016
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    Good to know - thanks Neil, I wasn't planning on getting the core rebuilt just yet, I think it has a few years left given the stretch its just done! But when the time comes...in the meantime I'll add to the maintenance list and check it every couple of months.

    Good to know there is at least one other enthusiast in Bris, are you aware of many? I'm in paddington btw.

    Cheers, chris

  9. #9
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    Jul 2012
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    Brisbane
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    Heater box

    Chris,

    Hello again from Sherwood.

    I hadn't really looked at the photos that you posted earlier of the heater box but can now see that it appears to have been modified at some stage. The original would have been held together by small pop rivets and more than likely there would have been a heater tap mounted to the side of the box. Yours seems to just have a hose directly exiting the box from the core presumably heading to the back of the head or the thermostat housing. Does it have a tap?

    Incidentally, a photo of the truck itself would be of interest to the crowd. Plus if you aren't already a member of SLow then let me recommend changing that status as a worthy New Year's resolution.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  10. #10
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    Maintenance.

    Chris,

    Hello again.

    Re maintenance, the heater core in my truck was chock a block full of crud and the flow seemed to be continuous regardless of how many times I flushed it. Seemed easier to get it rebuilt, plus the radiator repair crew really did it for beer money - they repainted my shroud for nix.

    As far as cleaning it goes - the usual backflushing is probably useful. A clean up with spirits of salt might also be with considering.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

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