Thread: Rattles, Rings and bearings...

a bit more info would help as in number of cylinders , model year minor stuff like that.
My 4 cylinder 73 series 3 engine had an automatic chain tensioner that kept the chain tight. something must be wrong for the tab to break off. needs more investigation.
I am rebuilding my engine at the moment and I have picked up new pistons and lots of bits at a reasonable price from Bearmach.
They have a great range of engine and gearbox parts and lots of other bits.
My top rings had worn out , probably by running without an air filter at some time in its life.
The crank in mine was really good and if I wasn't boring it I would have reused the crank as it is.

Are the your bearings in good condition ? if so reuse.

Just make sure everything is clean when reassembling and try and put everything back where it came from.

Ian
Bittern

Originally Posted by ian4002000

a bit more info would help as in number of cylinders ,

He does say it has 4 pistons - there is a clue to whether it is a 4 cylinder.

Yes, would probably help to say what engine it is! 2.25 3MB petrol.

The timing chain issue is in all liklihood the tensioner system, the ratchet on the elbow is very work and probably can't engage on the ratchet arm, so that might be it, I've got replacement parts for the whole system less the piston so hopefully it won't happen again.

As for the Pistons and bearings I'm taking the sump off over the weekend and I'll have a look, if the Pistons are worn then problem solved, new Pistons, if not then I think some replacement bermach rings from Britcar might do the trick, once the head is back on if it fails a pressure test on the bench then it's probably a reborn, but let's hope not.

I read somewhere it's conventional to replace the shells every time you remove the big end caps, but I can't remember where.

Sorry Ian, meant to ask, where did you get your bermach parts from?

It used to be fairly common to replace rings only if the bore and pistons were in good (or even reasonable) shape. I would expect the "blue box" rings to give reasonable service at least with the sort of driving it is likely to get. (Avoiding frequent long periods on the freeway, and serviced properly)

It is good practice to replace crankshaft bearings whenever you remove the connecting rods, but the need for this depends on the condition of the bearings and journals. If the journals and shells are in good condition, the only reason for this is because of the labour involved in getting that far, so you might as well fit new ones. If there is any possibility of refitting the originals, keep track of where they came from and put them back there! The same applies to pushrods, connecting rods, and most importantly, pistons.

The noise from the engine was certainly, as you suggest, the timing chain, but the compression and oil consumption strongly suggest that at the very least the rings are badly worn, making the bores and possibly pistons suspect as well. But this should become apparent when you get the pistons out.

Poor ring sealing could result from a single episode of severe overheating, and if this is the case, and the head is uncracked and not warped, there may be no other damage.

On the other hand, it is possible that both the low compression and oil consumption resulted from valve stem seals and poorly sealing valves, but this is unlikely to have given even compression, although I suppose this is possible if the loose timing chain had resulted in incorrect adjustment.

G'day All,

Sounds like your engine has high mileage on it.
Suggest check the main bearings for wear and in particular the centre main as this wears out if the oil filter has been bypassing.

Always use new bearings when rebuilding. They are cheap and will go the distance. Remember to lubricate the bearing surfaces with engine assembly compound or some form of moly lube before you fit up.

Definitely you need to measure the bore size. Maybe borrow a bore gauge from a local workshop.

Also measure the bearing journals on the crank for size and tolerance. They maybe under-size, so you can get the right size bearings.

Cold here in Concord this morning. 3 deg.

Chris

Thanks John and Chris for your thought, much appreciated. I'll pull the Pistons out tomorrow and maybe put a pic or 2 up, although at the moment a set of rings is hopefully the answer. The head and piston crowns were caked in crud, indicative of the amount of oil being burnt but it looks like everything is un cracked and true so maybe heating is the issue. It's another issue but she runs cold and gets hot in traffic, despite new thermostats this issue won't abate, hence a new water pump is also going on. So athough I've not overheated the engine I'd bet there is a good chance it has been baked a bit. Apparently she drove from Tazzie to Brizbane not so long back, I guess a lot could happen on a journey like that.

The head should get a good going over at the workshop when the seats are done, new valves ang guides, so with lunch that angle will be covered. I'll try and pinch a micrometer form work if they have one to check the bores.

As for the shells again I'll have a look and post some pics. I'm generally in the might as well replace it whilst it's open camp, but good original shells may be better than poor new... Still I buy some in. Thanks Chris I'll be sure to check the journals, hopefully the specs are in the workshop manual.

Let you know how we go. 3 degrees? I thought it was bad up on the hills above Perth! You know whiter is here when you get condensation in the tool box!

Cheers ian

A couple of years ago I purchased rings, main and big end bearings, timing chain, etc. for a two and a quarter engine from a local Automotive machine shop. I still have the boxes for the chain and bearings (yep I know, I am a hoarder), the timing chain was Repco, Bearings were Kings, and I think the rings were Hastings.
On the Hastings web site they are listed under Rover, not Land Rover.

Ring Finder | Hastings Manufacturing
2C5928
5928
Cheers, Mick.