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Thread: 2.6 carb mixture needle washer?

  1. #1
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    2.6 carb mixture needle washer?

    Hi All,

    Greetings from a lurker :-)

    Question: Does the mixture needle on the 2.6 stromberg carb have (need) a girling washer on it?

    The needle in mine is labelled B2BF and has a grove for (I think) a washer, however there isn't one on there. It seems to run ok without it. I don't really know how it is supposed to run though as I'm still re-building and it wasn't running when I got it.

    Just for chuckles:
    I lost hours on this carb. It was running a few months back then sat still for 6 months+, then not running. I took it out and found:
    -The float valve stuck closed.
    -The primary needle cylinder seized (wouldn't move under vaccum etc).
    ..so I cleaned her all up and tried to run.
    No luck. Only ran under heavy choke. There isn't much to these but I spent hours cleaning , testing trying things out..until I realised:
    ...the brake booster isn't connected to the manifold! i.e the vac hose was just waving in the wind. gaaa....so she was running lean as! Stuck a bolt in that there brake booster vac hose and she is purring like a kitten. The only thing at the moment is whether I should be chasing a washer on that mixture needle.

    Anyways, cheers for anyone who knows :-)

    GB

  2. #2
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    I haven't had a need to strip my carby but the exploded diagram doesn't show a clip.
    Zenith-Stromberg Carburetor - 1970-80 - Carburetors - Fuel, Intake & Emissions - Triumph Spitfire | Moss Motors

    I had to look up what a Girling washer was, have used them before on car brakes but didn't know there was a term for them.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  3. #3
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    Cheers Colin,

    I have admit being a better google mechanic than real one :-)

    When I click through the links you supplied, the needle shown is from a different engine, and the picture they supply (when clicking through the parts list) shows a nylon washer.

    My needle (B2BF) doesn't appear to be available anymore new, I found this: Parts for 3987 for Land Rover Series III 2.6 Litre - Burlen Ltd - Zenith Caburetters (zenithcarb.co.uk)
    ..if anything it confirms my needle is an original spec.

    Most images around the web show a washer of some sort on similar needles (very scientific that!!)

    I'm going to have a fiddle and put a spacer in and see what happens. At the moment I'm running super rich and I suspect without the washer I can't adjust properly - there is an extra 2mm or so of needle movement I can't access. ( I'm assuming super rich because she is burning through fuel even on idle, and accelerating without load is very...enthusiastic...and smokey/fumey.

    Thanks again., I'll update how I get on.
    GB

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by crontab View Post
    Cheers Colin,

    I have admit being a better google mechanic than real one :-)

    When I click through the links you supplied, the needle shown is from a different engine, and the picture they supply (when clicking through the parts list) shows a nylon washer.

    My needle (B2BF) doesn't appear to be available anymore new, I found this: Parts for 3987 for Land Rover Series III 2.6 Litre - Burlen Ltd - Zenith Caburetters (zenithcarb.co.uk)
    ..if anything it confirms my needle is an original spec.

    Most images around the web show a washer of some sort on similar needles (very scientific that!!)

    I'm going to have a fiddle and put a spacer in and see what happens. At the moment I'm running super rich and I suspect without the washer I can't adjust properly - there is an extra 2mm or so of needle movement I can't access. ( I'm assuming super rich because she is burning through fuel even on idle, and accelerating without load is very...enthusiastic...and smokey/fumey.

    Thanks again., I'll update how I get on.
    GB

    I have a couple of spare 2.6 carbys, one is probably beyond saving so I'll take a look when I get a chance.

    Be aware that the 2.6 is thirsty, don't run it too lean or you'll be replacing exhaust valves.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I have a couple of spare 2.6 carbys, one is probably beyond saving so I'll take a look when I get a chance.

    Be aware that the 2.6 is thirsty, don't run it too lean or you'll be replacing exhaust valves.
    Thanks Colin, when/if you can, no rush. And yes, the thirst and exhaust valve issues is in mind. Right now though it is like hanging around a petrol station.(from the fumes...but also the fuel consumption :-) )

    I have just put a spacer in between the needle and the carrier so that when all assembled the needle washer grove is flush with the carrier, which is flush with the piston - i.e the 'starting position' before doing final adjustments. Engine is running fine still, gut feel is less smoke but hard to tell. The problem with using a spacer (at the top of the needle, inside the carrier) is that it can't be adjusted - when adjusting via the allen key through the top, the carrier will move, but the spacer pushes the needle in the opposite direction :-) Oh well :-) I'm off to find some options for washers so I can get the adjustment capability back.

    BTW - this is a SIII FFR.

    Cheers,
    GB

  6. #6
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    Found a few articles on adjusting the needle height, most mention a special tool but this is possibly so you can adjust by removing the dashpot piston only (not stripping the top cover off). The tool stops the diaphragm getting torn.
    Here's one Adjusting a Stromberg carburettor | How a Car Works

    Lots of other information out there including several YouTube videos.

    Took an old CD175 apart and the needle is well & truly stuck in place. There is a small washer that sits in a groove in the needle, seems to stop the spring pulling the needle back too far.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the links Colin. There is certaily a fair amount of information out there.

    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post

    Took an old CD175 apart and the needle is well & truly stuck in place. There is a small washer that sits in a groove in the needle, seems to stop the spring pulling the needle back too far.
    OK thanks heaps - thats what I thought. I have just put a spacer in between the top of the needle and the adjusting screw to stop the needle going back too far. I can't adjust it anymore because of the spacer but the needle washer groove at least is now sitting flush with the carrier as if a washer was there. I'm using a long allen key at the moment instead of the tool for adjustments - and yes I have to remove the dashpot cover each time :-(.

    The engine is running with the needle in that location. Can't say I can see a difference as I'm not on the road yet. Maybe a little less soot at idle.

    I'm off to find a way to source or re-create that washer. Once I get the washer in place I'll go for some final adjustments etc.

    Cheers,
    GB

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