Thread: Series III 2.6L 6-pot massive oil leak from wading plug hole

Originally Posted by Gippslander

The 2.1/4 block has oil gallery’s which are plugged at the front and rear of the engine block, the rear are positioned behind the flywheel housing. I would think the 2.6 motor has the same is it possible you didn’t replace one of these plugs or it was only hand tight and now the oil is entering the housing from the gallery might explain oil pressure at start but then dropping and the amount of oil on the deck.

gippy

Pretty much what I was trying to get at with my Welch plug idea. I remembered something behind there. Reckon you've nailed it.

There it is - p/n 279415. Definitely worth checking!

Originally Posted by Tins

Pretty much what I was trying to get at with my Welch plug idea. I remembered something behind there. Reckon you've nailed it.

another great question. I did confirm that the oil seal was oriented correctly. The spring was facing toward the pistons or crankcase. Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by Busted Syncro

G'day All,

Interesting thread. Great job.

Just a thought was the rear main seal the right way round? Meaning the garter spring side of the seal facing into the engine. (The oil side.)

Chris

will be checking this ASAP and reporting back!!!! It’s great waking up and having more feedback. Thanks gentlemen!!!!

Originally Posted by drfish

There it is - p/n 279415. Definitely worth checking!

Have confirmed that p/n 279415 is properly installed and tightened.

Originally Posted by drfish

There it is - p/n 279415. Definitely worth checking!

Doesn't leave much.

Id be checking the rear main bearing setup and orientation...

on the 2.25 its not reversable and it makes for some very interesting sealing and oil pressure issues.

Ive also seen them leak through a cracked bearing block and when the block does not seat completely due to crud getting between the mating faces at the bearing. it'll hold a gap a couple of thou which is exactly at the site of the split in the seal holder. This neatly bypasses the rear main in total and is an easy path out for oil @ lube pressure.

Its also worth checking the bearing block bolts, Ive seen one left loose on a yota engine which gave a similar symptom and watched a monkey stretch one on a cat using a rattle gun.

good luck.

Hello thread followers!!! Just a quick note about this weekend. Got the new seal and seal retainer halves installed. With all the new knowledge imparted on me about how tricky the rear main seal is to fit properly on these engines, I was even more thorough this time. I'm going to take some pics with my borescope camera and post them sometime this week with some notes I made while installing the seal. That said, I do believe that I got it right this time and I can definitely see how the seal might look correct, but be bulging on one side or the other. It is a delicate dance between tightening the seal retainer halves which press the seal against the recess in the big end caps and tightening the big end cap which holds the seal in place from the bottom. If you tighten one more than the other the seal will bulge or slip out of the recess. It is tricky due to how much the seal is compressed in order to create a tight fit. But, honestly, once I was aware of how the installation failures occur then it was simply a matter of taking my time.

Also, I spoke to an engine builder very familiar with this process and the 2.6l. Not much to recommend over and above what the workshop manual calls for except to use RTV for the t-seals versus the cork or rubber t-seals provided.

More to come with pics hopefully!!!