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Thread: Series 3 88 - considering to buy...thoughts?

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    Series 3 88 - considering to buy...thoughts?

    Hi all, I am in the process of considering this series 3 1974 88 vehicle, I just wanted your thoughts and opinions on it.

    If all works well this thread should have pictures of the car attached below.

    The owner has recently changed all the brakes, added new wing mirrors, put new vinyl on the seats and installed new seat belts.
    The chassis number is the same as the dash plate apart from the last letter: A instead of D (last letter) - I believe this is normal? But I am sure Vic roads will have an opinion about them being different.
    I understand front and rear crossmembers need significant repair/replacement as per the pictures. The seller also has a trans cross bar and outriggers (new and placed in the boot for me to fit)
    My plan is to take the body off and engine out and sandblast the chassis, replace the rear and front cross members – patch repair as required.
    Galvanise the chassis then black powder coat it.
    The body panels do need some work (see pictures) especially the passenger rear wing
    The lower parts of the doors need replacing inside - would you replace the doors or just the bars at the bottom of the door? cost of new doors vs labour to fix these ones? is it worth the time?
    It currently has a holden engine there 2.6 6 cylinder – Not something I would have picked – this is where my brain goes off in different directions….convert to electric (having had an ipace in the UK which was great) or stick with he Holden for cost reasons, or back to a LR diesel?

    If you spot anything alarming here, please feel free to speak openly and let me know your thoughts on what its worth.

    Series 3 pictures.pdf

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    Please don't use PDFs to post pics, it's a PITA, especially when trying to view on a mobile device. The photo adding link above is tedious, but it works.
    Because it's a SIII...:

    Screenshot 2023-03-21 at 8.41.54 am.jpg
    Screenshot 2023-03-21 at 8.42.20 am.jpg
    Screenshot 2023-03-21 at 8.42.05 am.jpg
    Screenshot 2023-03-21 at 8.42.31 am.jpg
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

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    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    Series 3 88 - considering to buy...thoughts?

    Make sure it’s been registered with the Holden motor or you’ll be in trouble and require Engineering and a VASS Certificate if you plan to go that way again however based on what you’re saying you’ll need this for an EV conversion anyway.

    Shorty EV would be great - chat to Goingbush here - he’s done his Lightweight and it’s awesome.

    Body looks like it’s been beaten around a bit.

    If you’re stripping it completely and have good fabrication skills there’s nothing too much to be worried about - apart from your bank balance, but if that’s healthy I’d go for it.

    All the best. Series 3 88 - considering to buy...thoughts?
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Thanks Homestar - just for clarity, the vehicle has never been registered (in any Oz state), it was based on a farm in NSW and is now in VIC unregistered (this is what the current owner stated - he was in the process of getting it ready for the road as he has installed new seat belts, brakes and wing mirrors)
    So I am guessing I would have to get Engineering and a VASS regardless? Being from the UK, I don't know, is this process difficult? costly? or time consuming or impossible given it has a Holden engine?

    I am 50:50 regarding the EV conversation, part of me says if I am restoring it from the ground up and going the extra mile with the galv and then powder coat chassis + leather new interior. Then I shouldn't stick with the under powered, noisy, hard to drive holden.
    vs. the cost of the EV transplant.

    I will drop Goingbush a line so what the project cost him - thanks.

    Any thoughts on what you would pay for a car like this?


    sorry about the PDF pictures, I couldn't work out how to attach them as it just crashed 3 times.

    thanks

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    Having never been registered in Australia you're definitely going to need a VASS Certificate AND a letter / waiver from the department of infrastructure indicating the vehicle was imported before 1989 .....

    UNLESS if the vehicle was manufactured in Australia you may get away with just a RWC and documentation that the vehicle was a local build ( photo of id plate )


    As for converting to Electric, I converted mine 5 years ago and has been an ultra reliable daily driver.
    I ihave 28kwh of LFP prismatic batteries which are located where both petrol tanks were and an equal amount under the bonnet , Weight distribution is as per original and the vehicle is about 100kg lighter . The effective (practical) range is about 80km though you can theoretically double that if you keep under 50kmh ( or all weekend in low range)

    If you want to cram more batteries in for a longer range, in a SWB you're going to be in danger of going above GVM and will need suspension and brake upgrades.

    My conversion cost me $22,000 5 years ago using all new parts, People are saving money now by using salvage parts, Nissan Leaf or Tesla battery modules , and Nissan Leaf motors are an easy conversion ( probably even too much power for a SW

    After 5 years daily driving my brakes were getting a little sad ( out of round drum and leaky hub seal) which wasnt a huge problem because the Regen braking does most of the slowing down (on rear wheels) and only needed foot brake for final stop once you get below 10kmh . I just converted it to Disc brakes, something Ive wanted to do since I got it, I just used the leaky seal as an excuse.

    here are some videos from my youtube , I need to do a fresh video / walk around , these are years old now






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    Thanks Don, having read your EV conversion web page, you are clearly a lot smarter than me, regardless of my engineering degree and 20 years working for 2 car companies, I would struggle doing what you have done there.

    You mentioned the leaf option being easier and cheaper. I think I will look in that direction as my first option to weigh up.

    Where do they source the Leaf components? Strip down an old leaf car or just buying the components from Nissan aftermarket?

    Do you know of anyone who has document their leaf conversion on a forum, it would be great to understand the cost and level of modification/fabrication required.


    thanks

    Rand

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rand33 View Post
    Thanks Don, having read your EV conversion web page, you are clearly a lot smarter than me, regardless of my engineering degree and 20 years working for 2 car companies, I would struggle doing what you have done there.

    You mentioned the leaf option being easier and cheaper. I think I will look in that direction as my first option to weigh up.

    Where do they source the Leaf components? Strip down an old leaf car or just buying the components from Nissan aftermarket?

    Do you know of anyone who has document their leaf conversion on a forum, it would be great to understand the cost and level of modification/fabrication required.


    thanks

    Rand
    Leaf parts from wreckers , or buy a smashed Leaf from Auction or the parts you need from NZ .
    In NZ its legal to buy 5 year old Leaf from Japan for next to nothing and have it delivered to strip out specifically for parts used in conversions. (Apparently Its illegal to import a car for parts in Australia)

    This bloke in NZ is all about Leaf into LandRover conversions
    1985 Land Rover Defender - EV Project . Active Automation

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    01 - Electric Land Rover Series 1 Conversion - OLD DOG, NEW elecTRICKS! - YouTube

    There seems to be a few out there doing the leaf transplant into a LR Series.

    The link above is one from the UK that is in progress currently - I wonder if the longer batter pack he installed int he tub behind the driver could actually go between the chassis, under the tub?

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