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Thread: Series 3 Beach

  1. #1
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    Series 3 Beach

    Hi All
    New to series 3 ownership, going to Moreton island camping with friends soon.
    Anything I should be aware of with a 1973 S3 SWB 2.25petrol?
    Obviously air down, max tracks, snatch strap.
    What’s best to treat it with before? Worried as they can rust out?

    Cheers

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    Series Rovers have been driving on beaches since I was a kid. That’s a while ago. Don’t overthink it. Sure, there are a million things that you could do, but you don’t need to do most of them. Obviously you need to make sure that the car is in as good a shape as you can make it.
    remember you can’t drive the way they do on YouTube cos you don’t have the power. As for rust, a good thorough wash down with clean fresh water at the end of the trip is about 90% of what you need, getting into all the various parts of the chassis. A drain cleaner attachment on a pressure washer is excellent for this.
    Paul ( scarry) might have a few comments here.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    As above. Let the tyres down to about 15psi or even 12, and you will have no issues, just drive smoothly. You really need to have some way of reinflating the tyres when you get back on hard ground, and you need a good pressure gauge.

    Afterwards, as noted above, a thorough clean as soon as possible is what is needed. A good sprinkler under the car for an hour will usually do a good job, provided your water supply rules allow it.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    My dad used to stick the garden sprinkler under his S3 for an hour after going up the beach, that would wash most of salt & sand underneath, the inside we would wash out with a garden hose. The only two problems he had was water getting on the distributer, so give the cap a good spray inside & out with WD40 & if we drove through water & exhaust manifold was hot, they cracked, can remember having to replace at least 4 manifolds over about 6 years.

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    If running tubed tyres take a couple of spare tubes,as they are not the easiest things to get these days.Or patches,and repair kit.
    Running low pressures doesn’t do them any favours either.
    And you will need to have the gear to change them.

    Although what we do is take two spares,puncture kit,and a spare tube,last time we went to a Fraser that was the only issue we had with the Series 1,one flat tyre.We run them at 18 to 20 PSI which seems fine.
    Sand is pretty hard there ATM anyway.

    We always take a spare fuel pump as well,and other bits and pieces.Don’t know if your has an electric pump?

    As for the actual vehicle,as others have said,a good hose out a couple of times when you get back,and keep an eye on it after that.We use Tectyl on some places of the vehicle,it can be brushed on nice and thick or sprayed into places we can’t reach with a brush.Do this before you go and monitor once you get back,maybe re coat.

    Have fun,it is a great place.

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    I didn't know there was a dingo problem on Moreton Island.
    .W.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F. View Post
    I didn't know there was a dingo problem on Moreton Island.
    .W.
    Hmm,Thanks,i cocked that up,will mod the post.There are pigs….and we have had them turn up during the night looking for food,knocking over things,etc.

  8. #8
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    Having owned a S3 shorty back in the day (and still do, though it's in pieces under the house ) I and my friend who also owned one used to visit Moreton on a semi-regular basis. He treated his with Tectyl on a regular basis (yearly) and mine had been treated "professionally" though I think his was the better protected. My treatment gave a false sense of security as the rust proofing was only applied in the easy to get at places and missed the vital spots around the inside of the chassis where different sections meet and have overlapping steel. Think rear cross member to main rails and places like that.

    On return from the island I would park up with two wheels on the footpath and two on the road so I could get under the car easily and flood the chassis with water through the many various holes many of which are large enough to take a hose end. I would flood it until it ran clear though I obviously didn't do the job well enough because I did still ended up with rust in those hard to get at areas such as the back cross member join and the front dumb iron area where the front bumper attaches. All up I might have spent maybe three hours plus under and over cleaning and flushing. Inside can just be hosed out also unless you have carpet glued inside as some people have been known to do.

    Firewall is another hard to clean place but again flush as well as you can. And DON'T be tempted to drive through salt water at 80K no matter how much fun it seems and looks good for Facebook, (we know you won't go faster than 80K, cause that would be illegal, and dangerous). More likely to have electrical issues around plugs and distributor if you hit water fast and it sprays everywhere as well. If you have to go through salt go as slow as you safely can. Not many places on the island where you need to, or at least didn't need to back in the day, other than occasionally getting on or off the barge.

    Finally, enjoy!

    Cape Moreton 1978.jpg Mines the soft top, top of Cape Moreton back when you could!
    Lakey

    1976 SWB Series III Soft Top (AKA the big Meccano set)

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