Thread: Why no lights? Series 3.

check to see if you have a good earth give the connections a good clean and use some jointing paste if you have some wouldnt hurt to do all the earth connections

The plastic hi/lo indicator switch packs up as the full current for the lights runs thru it.Defender owners inherited the same fault,evolution didnt cull the problem.
They are around $100 for a newie from any of the Series parts people around aussie.Check power in/out of it I belive its your problem.
If your landy is a keeper and you drive it at nite get one of Drivesafes (Traxide Tronics)wiring upgrades so the lights pull direct from the battery,easily fitted uses your exsisting wiring to switch relays.
Goodluck
Andrew

If one went to a dim glow first, it will be the earths not the dip switch - although that could have accounted for one going and the switch the other!

Trace the earth lead from the lights, if it is the same as on the 2a, it earths to the radiator support - and this may well not be earthed effectively to the chassis. It wasn't on mine, so I simply ran an extra lead directly to the battery negative. But as mentioned above, adding relays is definitely a good idea, but even then you will still need to make sure the earths are effective. With the body made up of a large number of panels bolted together, and with many of the joints aluminium alloy to steel, there is a lot of opportunity for poor connections between the battery and the lights.

John

wouldnt be a series without a little gremlin running around somewhere!

I've got around that by completely replacing my wiring loom front to back.


My lights went out one "dark and stormy night". That plastic dip switch, and not realising the archaic wiring system couldn't handle "big bright" sealed beams, because there were no relays fitted to the lighting system.

Fixed now!
Big bugger dual relay fitted now, one side low beam, the other high.
And a new dip switch, to replace the one that melted.