Thread: Diff options.

I wondered how you got on with it.

Are you going to use it for TT's or tour, daily driver etc?

Also, what was damaged? You may also be able to just buy the parts for it in the interim???

Originally Posted by willvine

My aim is to fit a cost effective diff that will make me go further and harder.

What is the best out of all of these options or are there more ?

Thanks

Will.

Oh, you've already said.

Personally I would look to move away from Series front axles, but that brings a whole range of other considerations. I just don't think that you will get the strength out of them to continue TTing them. Stage 1 front axles I would have thought would be the easiest bet if you can get a set so that you can beef up the axles and CV's, and then put your front diff back into the Stage 1 axle housing with a locker. Is the rear already a Salisbury? I'd look to lock that and change it over to HD 24 spline axles.

Other than that, I'd look to move to a different axle.

Hi Slunnie,

My intension is to continue thrashing it

I dont drive it other than going bush. I have also learen i can weld the rear diff and fit lockers to the front.

What you suggest seems like the wright way to do it.

I will look around for some stage 1 front axels and bend over for a arb diff lock for the front and rear.

If time restrics me( Next TT 1st june) can i just weld the front diff centers to get me going till i get the parts, ( of course i will need a new crown and pinion) Stering should not be affected to much on road as i have free wheeling hubs.

cheers.


I am also looking for some parabolics cause after riding in chris's truck they are the goods.

Originally Posted by willvine

Hi Slunnie,

My intension is to continue thrashing it

I dont drive it other than going bush. I have also learen i can weld the rear diff and fit lockers to the front.

What you suggest seems like the wright way to do it.

I will look around for some stage 1 front axels and bend over for a arb diff lock for the front and rear.

If time restrics me( Next TT 1st june) can i just weld the front diff centers to get me going till i get the parts, ( of course i will need a new crown and pinion) Stering should not be affected to much on road as i have free wheeling hubs.

cheers.


I am also looking for some parabolics cause after riding in chris's truck they are the goods.

What size tyres are you running? Engine?

I have a salisbury rear (MD Locker) and a stage 1 front (unlocked) in my 109" on 33's. I broke a front (4.7) crownwheel and pinion a while back, but haven't been able to break the current one. I try to be easy on the mechanical components (don't try to deliberately break stuff), but drive any line I think I have a hope in hell of making, and aren't afraid to put my foot down when I (absolutely) need to.

That said, I do have plans to upgrade the front end eventually, but will probably build something custom.

Find a S111 stage 1 front and fit a locker with High Tough shafts and flanges if running 4.7 ratio Peg it. Done it to my old S111 and is great. Some trucks have this set up. Stops the crown W flexing from pinion. Pegging is not that hard to do. Keeping it there can be. Don't bother with salisbury unless you want the strength and to get hung up on ruts. In your case the S111 109 has it like mine did. We called it the blade. Hit and gouged rocks out. A Rover Diff on 7.50 16 will clear a Salisbury on 33". Same with as Nissan and Toyota Diffs. So best fix the Smaller Rover Centre on rear on 88's with 24 spline and Locker. The Salisbury is so much stronger though.

Its a 109 though. 7.50R16's I think.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Find a S111 stage 1 front and fit a locker with High Tough shafts and flanges if running 4.7 ratio Peg it. Done it to my old S111 and is great. Some trucks have this set up. Stops the crown W flexing from pinion. Pegging is not that hard to do. Keeping it there can be.

Hi
Bit of an old post but i would love to know some details on your diff pegging, looking at this as an option for the front diff on my 110 with 37s, i am looking for the best reliability.

heres some info on diff pegging

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