John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
These are the 11" drums I have at present, the second one down is the odd one out, from what everyone here has said that would be a drum for 3" pads then?
Last edited by TeZZaP; 11th June 2012 at 08:28 AM.
None of them are 3" drums.
3" drums have absolutely no chamfer - like this:
(this is a 101 drum though).
As an aside - it is a good idea to drill the drain holes out slightly larger. Stops them blocking up with brake dust and mud.
The screws that hold the drums on are completely unnecessary.
Do you have a pic of the backing plates for 3"? I have two different ones (different shape holes for the wheel cylinder)
Last edited by TeZZaP; 11th June 2012 at 08:28 AM.
I think they are two alternatives for the 2.25" brakes. The 3" ones will have a deeper relief pressed into them, as the wheel cylinder has still to be in the middle of the shoe sideways, so it has to be further from the flange where it mounts on the stub axle. Same as your picture of the drums shows two different versions of the 2.25" drums.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks for all your wise words guys. I know have a set of 11" drums that are all the same +backing plates that are the same (2 front ones and 2 rear ones).
I also have the pedal unit with the servo +brake master/reservoir.
Just need to source wheel cylinders; I have not checked whether they are worth getting rebuild kits for yet... but chances are I'll need new ones I guess!
I setup my series 2 SWB with 4cyl 11" on the front and 10" on the rear with no booster, I could rest my big toe on the pedal to stop and they worked great.
G'day TeZZap
You could go all new Genuine wheel cylinders, or get your/ or second hand ones Stainless Steel Sleeved by a specialist brake coy. as I did years ago, it saves the wheel cylinders pitting out from moisture
the original wheel cylinders on mine were cast iron and not alloy.
cheers
You can buy new slaves in both cast iron and aluminium. They are usually both the same price, and cheaper than getting the old ones stainless steel sleeved. I just repaired the brakes on my SI. They were all siezed. I freed them up, honed them smooth, and used the original seals which were still good. If your old ones are not heavily pitted, you could hone them (hones cost less than $10) and fit new seals. Try this first, as you have not lost any money.
Aaron.
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