Thread: Rewiring a Series 3 - advice required

Originally Posted by 45tr0

its a 1980 109" Series III GS (ex military) with the 6 cylinder. Engine # 94130728C.
No idea about a choke warning light - if there was one there certainly isnt now!

OH.

Having been 32-012 will make some difference! However the rules will remain the same. Identify which bits are the problem, decide if you want to restore it to Mil Spec or just have it working. If you merely want it to work then using a civilian 6 cyl harness will still be a good idea.

Even if you wish to return it to MilSpec and you can find the military S3 wiring diagramme (<snip>oops should read shouldn't I?) you can still hybridise the civilian harness.

Also give the usual suspects (dealers) around Sydney a call, they may still have surplus sold off when the LR plant in Sydney closed up. Try Land Vehicle Spares Land Vehicle Spares and Hilton Pollard (contact through Master Chief if necessary).

Diana

google "mustang sallys landrover pages"
Loads of very good info there.Should be good enough to inspire you to DIY your own wiring!!!!
Goodluck
Andrew

Howdy 45tr0



You say you can read a diagrahm/follow instructions why not do what I do and go to the local auto shop and purchase some different coloured wires and do it yourself. It can be done in 2 to 3 days if you have your wits about you and you don't get any interuptions.


Cheers Nev.

Originally Posted by Blue Bandit

Howdy 45tr0
You say you can read a diagram/follow instructions why not do what I do and go to the local auto shop and purchase some different coloured wires and do it yourself. It can be done in 2 to 3 days if you have your wits about you and you don't get any interuptions.

Cheers Nev.

Nev

It's a great idea to make your own and congratulations for doing it. Ever tried to remember what you did several years later, if you can't find your code sheet or worse still be the next owner of a vehicle that has had this done even if there were 5 different colours? Or even 10 it makes simple problem solving all that much more difficult?

Yes I have done it that way and now being older and wiser, I would rather that someone cut up a number of British harnesses and use the correct colours, it makes life much easier.

Diana

Hi Diana

I can see where you are coming from but if you follow the colour code as per wireing diagrahm you can't go wrong.
Just for interest sake when I finish my landy it will not be sold for a long time.
Maybe after I have past my time.

Cheers Nev.

I've also been considering doing this job on my S3 for a while - although it's not in the stage that yours seems to be! Having had to do quite a bit of re-wiring when my dash caught on fire one trip I hate it every time I have to go into the mass of brown wire that is behind my instruments!!!

One thought I'd like to throw into the cauldron is that the orginal S3 wiring has very heavy cored wire and that is unnecessary for much of the signal wires to and from the engine. Of course you will still want heavy guage wires for running anything with a decent current. BUT, you sound like you want to do this right, so I'd be putting relays in front of anything that runs more than the interior light. In that case ( and this is what I'm doing ) consider making your own loom out of multi core cable ( such as 8 wire or 12 wire alarm cable ).

Now, the trick here as someone has pointed out, is to know what the hell the wires are 6 months down the track. Get yourself a dymo labelmaker .. or better still a Rhino labelmaker that will print onto heat shrink cable and label your loom at the ends and every so often down the length. And of course on each individual wire at the terminals.

If you group your wires as per function, i.e have 1 whole 8 core dedicated to blinkers and sidelights, 1 x 8 core for headlights parkers and driving lights... etc.. you then have the workings of a sensible system to re-wire your landy.

I havn't done this yet, but it's been brewing in my mind....


Whatcha think, guys?

thought i had done a reply on this one,
if you get hold of the schematic for the ser 3 GS from the files section,
its easy to follow,
a suggestion, remove all your wiring lay it on the floor and trace all the relevant wires and get rid of the superfluous ones. if your loom is fairly ntact you'll find the millitary wiring overwrapped on it, The are three that go to the rear, blackoutlight/blackoutbrake and nato plug power, red/yellow, green/purple and brown. if you still have the blackout switch they go straight to it.
there are two bundled sections ( they all come together and have and end piece on them) the first is heavier grade brown, they are power for major items and the second are all white, they are power as well for minor items,

I have just done mine, my comments etc are in the remlr projects section.

Initially its a pain, working it out , eventually it all falls into place when you work out the colour codes, the common earths and the like.
initially I thought it was one for the too hard basket, but it wasn't
hope this helps


john

If yours is a S111 ex Army Ring British Off Road in Qld sunshine Coast 07 54951094, Im sure they still half a dozen complete looms in packets .They were going to charge me $180 a little while ago.