Thread: Series transfer case help required - urgent

To be truthfull they are a pretty strong transfer case and it would be more than likely you have broken something in the front axle. In the transfer case is a collar that slides over some large teeth to give you drive out of the front and it's not prone to give trouble, even with V8's. Something in the axle will give up first like a half shaft, spider gears or the main pin!

Guys,
Thanks for your replies. I probably worded this wrongly from the start.
The car is a bitsa, an old series 2a completely rebuilt in 82 or there abouts with then the most current parts in this case series 3. I was told by Fred Smith from Melb (who built it that the rear diff a Salisbury (3,54? I think)was from a series 3 V8). the V8 and the C10 were his choice and with the exception of breaking whatever it was the other day the old girl has been awesome.

It doesnt have a V8 fr diff because Fred told me that if Iwanted to put fr diff lock in I would need to get a stage 1 fr diff. the tfr case is definatly rover and it is not full time fwd.
hi and low range still work although it is pretty hard almost impossible to get it back into hi range (two wheel drive) once engaged.

Thanks,

Tim.

Thanks,

If that is the case what options do I have with the front diff. ie there is no point replacing it with the same only to break again? is there a stronger option? I wasn't being stupid only trying to get up a sandy track.

Up until then she went where all the others went. No dramas at all. Tomorrow I will check as you said before is there any other check-list i need to follow to isolate the fault?

Thanks,

Tim.

If you have a series 3 V8 (stage 1) front axle then you have the strongest option, next down is a series 3 LWB axle (fine spline drive members) and the weakest is SWB of any series. All of these will still run 10 spline side gears in the diffs (all the diff heads are the same except the stage 1 diff will be higher ratio).
But let's see if yours is stuffed first!

C10 and series tranfer are quite strong. I don't like the sound of hard to shift to High Range. Tony

You have a 3.54 rear and 4.7 front Or I've miss read your post. Tony

Stomps

Make sure you let us know what you diagnose!

I must point out that some of the information you have just received is not 100% correct.

• The CVs in the Stage 1 front swivels are some of the strongest CVs made for any Land Rover model.
• The halfshafts between the diff and the CVs can actually be upgraded using Hi-Tough halfshafts (formerly known as Maxi-Drive halfshafts).
• The information about running different diff ratios between front and rear is a concern and will most definately break things on hard surfaces but unlikely on dry sand.

If you have broken a half-shaft and want to replace it with another OEM and have trouble tracking one down, I may be able to assist. However they are still sitting in a casing which I hadn't decided to dismantle yet.

C Ya
Diana

Jack up a front wheel and see if it changes ratio a bit easier. Then count the number of turns of the propellor shaft for one revolution of the wheel. Then repeat for the rear propellor shaft and wheel.

Aaron.