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Thread: Stage1 front diffs

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    Stage1 front diffs

    Can anybody tell me how you can tell the difference between a Stage1 diff and a standard one without having to dismantle anything.I am aware of the stronger CVs and 3.54diffs.
    I may have sold 1 of my Stage1s,the remaining one is under question.The person who sold it to my brother was of questionable mentality,lots of really weird/stupid things done,one includes fitting FREE WHEELING HUBS.
    Is there a casting stamp anywhere on the axle????
    Ive compared the 3 Ser3 Landies I have,all 3 look very similar(one isnt a Stage1).
    Thanks
    Andrew
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    The standard SIII 109 F/W hubs will fit onto a stage 1 front end, same 24 spline drive flanges etc. (Did he do that on an LT95 g/box?)

    My understanding is that the only way you can tell the difference is to take the swivel apart and have a look for a spicer or CV halfshaft.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    I agree with Diana - I think that externally they are almost identical. You can find the diff ratio by counting turns - assuming off the vehicle, lock one hub (e.g. adjust brake to hard on) and count the number of turns of the pinion for one turn of the other hub - double the number to get the ratio. Distinguishing between 4.7 and 3.54 would not require great accuracy.

    John
    John

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    Thanks Diana.
    YEP,LT95,cant understand why.It appears nothing has actually been removed(ie all suspension bolts look Series old).When we but it on the trailer we had to back it up in gear on the startermotor as its a non goer,it wouldnt move,locked the hubs and away she went.
    How about the 2 superchargers complete with MADMAX style gearshifter switch.The superchargers were a pair of demister fans feeding the aircleaner,I KID YOU NOT.
    He liked air horns too,two sets,arieals and some other "interesting" stuff.
    Andrew
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I agree with Diana - I think that externally they are almost identical. You can find the diff ratio by counting turns - ...

    John
    John you are correct about identifying the diff ratio, but it won't help with the CV joints.

    If you look at tardis' SIIB camper, I am convinced that it is running a Range Rover front end with a Series 4.7:1 Series diff. so a CV joint and 4.7 ratio, the same as my red SIIB has Stage 1 swivels and CVs and the ENV 4.7:1 diff.

    I can not see any other way to confirm the presence of CVs on a non goer than to crack open one swivel and take a look.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    John you are correct about identifying the diff ratio, but it won't help with the CV joints.

    If you look at tardis' SIIB camper, I am convinced that it is running a Range Rover front end with a Series 4.7:1 Series diff. so a CV joint and 4.7 ratio, the same as my red SIIB has Stage 1 swivels and CVs and the ENV 4.7:1 diff.

    I can not see any other way to confirm the presence of CVs on a non goer than to crack open one swivel and take a look.

    Diana
    How about this - proceed as for diff ratio measurement, but turn on full lock.

    If there is a wheel and tyre fitted, mark with chalk on the tyre each quarter turn of the pinion. For the CV joint, all marks will be the same spacing, for a cross and bearing joint there will be a measurable difference in the space between the marks, as the wheel speeds up and slows down twice per turn of the wheel

    John
    John

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    It could work, but I would want to do the same thing on a couple of known vehicles to compare the difference between the CV joints and spicer joints.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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    Would I be correct in thinking that with free wheeling hubs and an LT95 that you would have to engage the centre diff lock to move if the hubs were disengaged?
    URSUSMAJOR

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    YEP,mentioned that in the second post.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
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    Andy,

    The only external way to tell for sure is to check the angle of the pinion.

    The stage 1 axle is rotated so the pinion is higher and points to the t-case output (similar to the angle on your disco). Whereas a series is lower - compare the stage 1 to your series and see if they are different.

    Still no 100% guarantee it has CVs though.

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