Thread: New Member Question

Hi Tucker, and welcome.

A 4 cylinder side valve sounds like a Series 1. The motors were actually a side exhaust valve but overhead inlet valve. Either inlet-over-exhaust or in Jeep-speak an "F-head."

I have two Series 3's, but neither has the 2.25 motor, so I'm just passing on what I've heard. The 2.25 SOHC motor is just about unbreakable, with an over-engineered block and low compression it's understressed.

The diff in the back of long wheelbase Series 3's is a Salisbury, but in SWB is a standard Rover diff. There are always exceptions, so it's worth looking. The simplest thing is to compare the font and rear diffs. If they look the same, the rear is a Rover diff. If they look nothing like each other you have a Salisbury.

The weaknesses of Series 3's are firstly that they are at least 25 years old, and up to 35 years old. This will cause you more trouble than anything else: no part can be considered free of risk after 35 years.

The out-of-the-box weaknesses were an understrength gearbox (from shoehorning synchromesh into a box physically the same size as the 2a gearbox) and RUST in the chassis. The gearbox is fine provided you don't treat it as unbreakable. The transfer case is almost bulletproof. The rust issue requires checking of the chassis, and prompt repair of any issues. Since the rust is usually inside to out, tapping with a hammer is more reliable than looking for red patches.

While Series 3 chassis are more prone to rust than any other model before or after, repairs are simple and often long-lasting. One of my vehicles had large areas of the chassis cut out and replaced after less than 10 years, and has then gone the next 20 without any sign of trouble.

Welcome to the "club" and I hope you anjoy your Land Rover ownership as much as we do (which means the occasional tearing of hair along with great joy).

The most important thing to remember when driving your Land Rover is ... to wave to other Land Rover owners.

I think Steve has about covered most points. The only thing he did not mention is that they use Lucas electrics. While a bit of an improvement in some respects compared to the Series 1 & 2, it would be surprising if you don't have electrical problems. One specific point to watch is that they do not use headlight relays, so increasing the wattage of the headlights is very likely to lead to problems with the light switch and h-lo switch. Also, there is a good chance that there have been wiring modifications, which may have been well done, or more likely, not well done.

John

Originally Posted by tucker

Hi all,
I have just join the forum as I have just bought my first Landrover.
Well we had a Landrover on our farm when I was a kid, A 4 cylinder side valve motor and needed a 40 acre paddock to turn the thing around. I think it was a late series one... I think?
Anyway I have just bought a Series 3 1975 model 4 cylinder.
I have loved them since a kid but have limited knollage on the Landrovers.

I believe the diff in the back of my Landrover is a Salisbury?
Could anyone let me know about the Series 3 and any weaknesses they may have?
How strong is the gearbox and transfer case in these series?
How reliable are these 2.25 motors?
I look forward to hearing from anyone and learning more about the Landrover.

Hi Tucker.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Land Rover ownership.

As mentioned in this thread there will be hair pulling (and the learning of some exotic swear words with your vehicle as the target ) but there is also a lot of fun to be had as well.

If you do'nt have a manual, this is the first thing to get. Here is a link where you can download one free of charge.

http://www.stage1v8.net/manuals/

I know you're going to have a heap of fun with your 3.

A.J.

Thanks all that have replied.
It's great to know that I have help in learning about the Landrover. I can see I am going to get addicted to the Landy very quickly.
I have the LWB and have had a look at the rear diff and yes it's look alot bigger, I guess it's the salisbury
Reading your comments I already have one of the electrical problems as the high beam switch doesn't work.
I might have to look at replacing and rewiring it to include a relay.
I looked at the chassis before I bought it and didn't see any rust but now I know it from inside to out I will keep and eye on it.
Many thanks for all your help.

Here's a pic of the Salisbury differential on my Series Station Wagon. It is partly obscured by the petrol tank but it should give you a general idea. Does it Look familiar?



AJ