Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Stage 1 brakes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Invermay Tasmania
    Posts
    1,732
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Stage 1 brakes

    Does anyone have a true (real) photo of the front & rear brake set up on a stage 1.

    When I did mine I am pretty sure they are correct but not 100% as there was none there to begin with.

    Also how can you tell if the vacuum diff lock really works


    Adam

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Don't have a pic but stage 1 brakes are the same as other lwb series 3 six cylinders.

    To test the CDL - switch it on (obviously engine needs to be running), switch off, make sure the gearbox and transfer case are not in neutral and jack up one front wheel. If you can turn the wheel the CDL is not working - if you cannot turn the wheel it is working.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Posts
    18
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Adam, and hi to all as this is my first post..
    I dont have a photo just yet but if you pm me i can take one and email it to you.

    The way i checked my diff lock was quite easy, here is what i did..
    remove the gearbox tunnel pannel and the drivers side floor plate so you can see the front prop shaft, the way i did it was to unbolt the front prop shaft and let it down on the floor at the gear box end, then start the engine in neutral, making sure it is in high range.
    if you have oil to the full mark when its cold the output flange should turn slowly while the engine is running. (cold oil will gently roll all the shafts) if it doesnt start turning try a few revs or start it spinning with your hand.

    Now my setup is custom but find the hose that runs from the back of the intake manifold, there are two points on the actuator, one to the front of the car and one on the back side of it, if you connect the hose from the engine directly to the front of the vacuum actuator you will lock the diff ( if it works ) you should hear a small clunking noise and the out put shaft will stop rolling.

    now... if you remove the hose from the front and put it on the back you will release the diff lock, however you will need to grab the output shaft and rock it the opposite way and it should start to turn again. (just like you have to go backwards a bit normally to disengage {windup})

    As for the brakes, mine are all standard (new) so ill take a pic for ya if that helps, what i can tell you is that there no where near bloody good enough, and terrible for reversing down hills (double leading type) lol

    Any way hi to all agian and i hope that was a help to you adam

    Arty.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!