Well i finaly finished the damn thing,was getting it ready to take for its blue slip.had to bleed the brakes no probs done that,but when i was finished i adjusted all thw shoes was all good.started it to put it away & noticed the pedal was hard so i turned it off pumped the pedal to get all the vacumn out & held me foot on it then started it again & no movement in the pedal at all so i did this a few times still the same so i thought that the booster was stuffed so went & got a brand new one & fitted it all up done the same thing again & geuss what they still the same..so we bled them all again but this time i locked each one as i was done & i did them the right way starting with the one furthest away from master cyl & finished at the one closest & still the same..i thought when pedal stayed har after pumping the vacumn out & starting it while presure is on the pedal ment that the booster was had it..& i read somewhere that to test it you pumped the vacumn out then started the car with your foot & presure on the pedal ,if it moves down a bit its ok & if there is no movement then it no good..HELP me what is it,if i dont get it sorted & rego by the end of the week its going on here FOR SALE..
ON the plus side i got all the paper work from engineer & its all finished bar the damn brakes..
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Oh yeah it has the dual braking system on it to ...plus i have plenty of vacumn at the booster..
come on guys some one has to know..i realy dont want to put it on here for sale but its just realy gettin to me now.this is the last job to get done ..
I am not an expert on the dual, boosted system, but it seems to me that if you have vacuum at the booster, it must be a problem with the adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod, a blocked vent on the booster, or a vacuum leak on the booster or the fitting the hose goes on. I would also carefully check that it is the correct booster, and that there are no parts mis-assembled.
Hope this helps.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanx john.i just cant understand it i have fluid coming out at all bleed nipples so i asume master cyl & prop valve must be working ok.....HHHHEEEEEEELLPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As I analyse it, if the pedal is hard, that is, not going to the floor, the brakes are probably bled correctly. If the pedal does not go down when the engine is started, this indicates the booster is not working. If there is vacuum getting to the booster, then the only things that can stop it working is if the vacuum is somehow escaping, the vent that lets air in to operate the booster is somehow blocked, or the valve that operates the booster (from movement of the pedal push rod) is not operating correctly. The most likely reason for this is that the pushrod adjustment, or some incorrect assembly, or the wrong booster, has meant that the valve is open all the time, so that the vacuum never builds up.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Well the booster is a brandnew one i brought it on friday from all fourx4 spares at kotara.so mit has the factory set push rod.but i had to fit it upside down the vacuum pipe is at bottom not top as the master cyl wouldnt fit with it up top but was told by brake specialist that that is fin to do this..but i had to take the bung thingy out of the old 1 & fit it to the new 1,as it is now on the top & easy to get at i will take it out & put my thumb over it & start the car & see if there is vacuum in the booster....???????????any ideas.hey john your a legend....
Well this morning i tried the brakes again & guess what they still the same..so i took out that little grub screw thing to see if the booster was getting the vacuum as it was in the hose.& as soon as i undid it some you could here the air going in so it is getting vacuum & holding vacuum..so i desided to bleed the brakes again only got the rear passanger side done started to do rear drivers side & rounded the nipple so i gave up on that..but when you pump the brake pedal & hold it then start it there is still no movement..so i give up it is now up for sale its all done & fully engineered & the power steering is so good its great but after nearly 2 & a half years & close to $10,000 as everything is new , i have had enuff of it so if someone offers me between $5,500 & $ 6,000 its theres...
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