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Thread: Series 3 Rebuild.

  1. #51
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    Oh wonderful news TJ!

    I am glad it has worked out so well for you. The chassis and bulkhead look fantastic. I didn't realise you were in Collie - you should drop around for a natter some time.

    The stuck bushes will come free if you very carefully hacksaw a cut into one side. When you guesstimate that the cut is nearly through the wall of the old bush, give it a whack with a round cold chisel and a heavy hammer. If you don't have a cold chisel, you can make one by grinding the end of a parallel punch (it needs to be about 6mm or greater in diameter) about 10 degrees out of square; or if you don't have a punch, an old anti-sway bar from a wreck at the tip will do the job, cut at an angle with a cutting disc. Wear safety specs when hitting it

    Don't use any other shape of cold chisel as it will damage the bore in the chassis.

    Love the look of your workshop - I wish mine was so tidy

    Cheers Charlie

  2. #52
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    Feb 2004
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    Williams West Aust
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    Hi Charlie
    Called around a month or so ago on a sat morn,nobody seemed to be around.Will call in next time.
    My C4 auto conversion is pretty much the same size as as Landy 4 speed.It has a shortened output housing that bolts direct to the Landy transfer
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
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    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
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  3. #53
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    Mar 2009
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    My custom puller managed to get the rear two sleeves out, but I could not get the front two to budge. I gave up yesterday afternoon and then checked here to find the advice from Chazza. Thanks for that, the first one came out ok by hacksawing it almost through first and then applying my puller this morning.

    Since then things have gone downhill in a big way. On hammering the new one in I have not only bent the sidewall of the Chassis, I have cracked it around the bore and around the edge of the bottom of the chassis. To make matters worse trying to hammer the last 5mm of bush in has splayed the end so it won't go in far enough. ....AND finally, to top it all off and the reason for my "time out" in front of the computer back at the house now... a large block of wood I was using to protect the sleeve flew out and hit my Porsche.
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  4. #54
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    Mar 2009
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    Red face

    Well, after I'd calmed down I went back to the shed to assess the damage to the 911. There was a hole straight through the car cover and I was expecting cracked paint and a ding, but there was not even a scratch! I couldn't believe it. I'd seen an episode of Top Gear when Jeremy Clarkson dropped a piano one one, drove it into a brick wall, shot at it with a shotgun, poured acid over it and finally dropped it from a crane into an exploding caravan to show how tough they are. I see what he means now! If that piece of wood had hit one of my previous Commodores it would have dinged it for sure.

    Back to the Landy, I felt my luck had turned after seeing there was no damage to the 911. I hacksawed and knocked out the "new" bush then hacksawed the last bush to remove. The puller could not budge it so I made a drift out of a broken axle from the back of my other S3 88''.
    I ground the edges on an angle just enough to stop it from digging into the side of the bore, but so it wouldn't go into the center of the bush and push it out. Overall it took me 9 hours to remove the two front bushes.
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  5. #55
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    Well thank heavens for some good news!

    You shouldn't have to hammer the bush in TJ, use your extracting puller to pull the new bush in. Clean off any rust first and grease the bore and bush on the outside. I use Loctite anti-seize but any GP grease is better than nothing.

    I am surprised that the welds let go, which indicates that they were not very good in the first place! Grind the crack to get rid of the zinc and running a nice hot mig weld over the top, should see it in good order again. Use some Chemtech etch-primer to cover the welds afterward,

    Cheers Charlie

  6. #56
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    Feb 2004
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    I had a hell of a job getting mine out.I ended up tack welding a piece of steel in side quelching it with water then belting it thru.Worked a treat.
    Happy to hear the pride and joy didnt get damaged
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  7. #57
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    Thanks for the input guys. My puller's shaft is too big to fit through the centre of a new sleeve, so I was hitting it with a 4LB hammer.

    I had considered putting anti-sieze on the new bush, but wasn't sure and thought that may defeat the purpose of the tight fit. I'll use anti-sieze next time.

    While I'm waiting for the new one tomorrow I'll weld up the cracks. You're right Chazza, the other side didn't crack at all, which proves the welds were not good enough. At least it happened now and not later down the beaten track.

    I have heard of the welding and quelching idea LandyAndy, I wouldn't have minded giving that a go too, but it didn't occur to me at the time.

    Once I get this beast finished us three should have a get together somewhere around Williams, Narrogin and Collie, to compare Landy's!

    My wife and I are working on this thing full time at the moment so it shouldn't take too much longer. She already has the first coats on the safari roof, bonnet, tub and the two rear cab sides.

  8. #58
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    Mar 2009
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    We had visitors for 3 days so progress came to a stop until today.

    I've re-welded both front chassis sleeves or whatever they're called. The one I had trouble getting the bush out of had a bur in it halfway in going quater of the way around the circumference. This explained why I had so much trouble getting the old out and my first attempt at putting the new in failed. I used a die grinder to level it out, lined it with anti-seize and hammered it lightly in, easy! On advice from my brother in law I put the other bush in the freezer, lined it's sleeve with anti-seize and it slid in with only a few taps with a rubber mallet, even easier!
    Louisa has painted the chassis with body deadener. Tomorrow I'll begin fitting the parabolics, shockies and axles. What a relief, I'm finally getting to put something together and things are about to start getting interesting.
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  9. #59
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    Beautiful work TJ!

    Set backs come along but getting on top of the problem and fixing it, is part of the fun and you have done it in style.

    If you think your problem was nasty, I managed to punch a hole through the back of the gearbox casing on my S1 when trying to get a bearing race out The galling thing was, that I was following the manual's instructions instead of my instincts

    Cheers Charlie

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    Beautiful work TJ!

    Set backs come along but getting on top of the problem and fixing it, is part of the fun and you have done it in style.

    If you think your problem was nasty, I managed to punch a hole through the back of the gearbox casing on my S1 when trying to get a bearing race out The galling thing was, that I was following the manual's instructions instead of my instincts

    Cheers Charlie
    As a friend said to me this week, rebuilding a Landy is "character building",
    but when I look at it so far that was the hardest bit I've had to do yet, I'm no mechanic (I'm an electrical instrumentation tech) and I still have found it much simpler than other cars I've worked on.

    Did you get your S1 Gearbox fixed ok? I have a spare S3 casing, but I guess that's not going to help you much.

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